Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, Mike Waugh, and Randy Leavitt, January 1978
Page Views: 1,019 total · 7/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Sep 15, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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A clean, wide, committing offwidth (crux) leads to very well protected undercling exit moves.


This climb is near the southeast end of Little Hunk, on the north-facing side. It's a wide offwidth slot, capped by a roof.


Six inch cams are nearly tipped out on the offwidth; bring larger cams or Big Bros. Small gear protects the undercling.


Russ Walling
  5.10c R
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c R
Just did this thing today as a 25 anniversary ascent, plus or minus a year or two. At the bottom it is about 10 inches wide..... I had a BigBro going deep in the crack, but for the most part if you fall in the first 15 feet or so, you deck on to some very angular boulders at the base unless you have a very big cam or something out of the ordinary. It would not be pretty. After that a #5 Camalot will start to work and offer some protection until it becomes solid pro higher up in the crack. There is a fixed pin under the roof and the roof will take anything from a .75" TCU to a 2.5" friend. Interesting and cool moves get you out and past the roof. Anchor needs something like a 2.5" cam, a couble of small to medium wireds, and some slings. Really good route... just don't fall at the start, which is the crux by the way. Apr 2, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10c R
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10c R
This is a nice one. The wide section eases the higher you go as it gradually goes from 10" down to about 5" in the back up top. Take the biggest cam you have, an old style green #5 camalot doesn't really start working until about halfway up. Crux is definitely the first 15' of the route. Roof exit moves are very cool and not obvious, a nice little bonus after the grunt. Apr 2, 2007
Albuquerque, NM
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
Does anyone have any info on the utility of a (new style) #6 camalot here? Mar 11, 2009
Russ Walling
  5.10c R
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c R
They will all fit at some point. It ain't going to help you much for the business section. Mar 12, 2009