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Routes in Devil's Slide

Close To The Top T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easier Than It Looks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Harder Than it Looks S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Knuckle Duster T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mark of the Beast S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk In The High Country S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 10,261 total, 75/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 15, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Mark of the Beast is probably the longest, vertical, non-contrived route in the park. The route is a well-protected three-pitch slab route that climbs the right side of the Devil�s Slide. The first pitch is also known as Christine�s Variation and is a great 5.6 climb just by itself.

P1. Start at the base of a long, clean slab just left of the prominent overlap that marks the left side of the Cheap Wine Wall. Climb past seven bolts to a pair of top anchors in a shallow dish just right of the Fatman Flake. While there are a couple sections where the wall is a little steeper, there is no real crux. Fun, 5.6 climbing to the anchors.

P2. Climb up and left from the P1 anchors past the Fatman Flake. The crux is a steep smooth headwall that leads to the first bolt (5.8/5.9 range). Once past the first bolt, the angle and the climbing both ease significantly. Climb past two more bolts to a two-bolt belay on the Broadway Ledge. Short pitch.

P3. Another short pitch. Climb an easy slab up and right from the P2 anchors to a two-bolt rap station.

From the rap anchors on top of P3, rap with two ropes back to the P1 anchors near the Fatman Flake. A second two rope rappel gets you back to the ground. You could also scramble up a low angle slab and walk off the top of the dome.

Protection

Seven quick draws and something for the two-bolt anchors at the top of each pitch. Two ropes required to rap off.
Did this beauty today for the first time and it's now one of my favorites. Also wanted to add that in Sean O'Grady's guidebook he says the third pitch goes up and right off of Broadway through three bolts to two top anchors. And you can rap off this route with one 70m rope by rapping down to the pitch 2 anchors and from there down to the anchors directly next to the Fatman flake. These anchors will take you to the top of two giant boulders leaning against the dome, at which point you can hike down class 2/3 to bottom. As for the grade, for me, the first couple moves on pitch 2 feel just as hard as the crux on Ripple which goes at 5.9+ so I would call it a 5.9 Oct 15, 2017
TJ Kells
  5.8+
TJ Kells  
  5.8+
Just wanted to drop in and say (since it's a bit ambiguous from previous posts) that a 70m is also insufficient for rapping from the P1 anchors. Attempted to simul rap thinking the extra stretch would get us there, ended up about 25ft from the ground. You CAN pendulum to the formation to the left of the route and scramble down, but it wasn't terribly fun. Feb 24, 2017
NEKlimb
 
NEKlimb  
 
Tricky to see the bolts from the ground so take your time while looking for it. We topped out on this route and walked off the front side of the dome to end our day. With a 70m we were able to link pitches 2 and 3 with no problem. The crux is tricky but well protected. Jan 27, 2017
ggstart
  5.8 PG13
ggstart  
  5.8 PG13
Had a friend interested in a multi-pitch climb and suggested Beast as a good starting point.
The routes were dry, thankfully, with great weather.
This is a good climb, with plenty of bolts. For a beginner it's a good long climb with the option to top out on the dome.

If only going to P1, the following link is a good technique for a long rap with a short rope.

climbing.com/skills/long-ra…
Enjoy. GGS Apr 11, 2016
Can someone explain what stops you from just rapping back to each of the belay stations to do a rap retreat? Nov 11, 2015
Chris Mendez  
 
We just climbed this last weekend and I agree it's a great intro to multi-pitch. Like everyone else, we didn't see any bolts after P2 anchors. In fact, our guide book says it's just a runout/walkoff after P2 anchors. Instead of going right to what appears to be the Dome Driver bolts, we traversed the ledge left to the P2 anchors for Harder Than It Looks and walked up out from there (we were much less confident going straight up and definitely didn't see any rap anchors on this route). Sep 28, 2015
Fenicks
5.8+
Fenicks  
5.8+
Finished this climb with my son yesterday - very fun and not overly difficult. Couldn't find the bolts for the last pitch (like many others here). The bolts in the pictures here, which are about 20-25 feet to the climber's right, belong to Dome Driver, after it connects with Hartford. Despite the guides saying there are two bolts above the last pitch, the actual route maps don't show any additional bolts on pitch 3 for Mark of the Beast nor for Harder than it Looks. As mentioned, though, it's an easy enough climb up the slope and over the top of the dome. There's a nice run out with plenty of small gnammas to keep your footing. Overall very fun climb and excellent for our first multi-pitch route. Aug 4, 2014
bart cubrich 1  
  5.8
Just did this again a few days ago. The third pitch can be done with a short unprotected traverse to a line of bolts to the right. Not sure if this is the intended line, but it is a short pitch and fast way to the top. Climbing seems 4th class from the anchors at the top of pitch 3. I also noticed that the route is icy in the morning this time of year, making the first pitch feel much harder than what is supposed to be the crux on the second pitch. Feb 11, 2014
Taylor Journey
Park City, UT
Taylor Journey   Park City, UT
From the P1 anchors we traversed climbers right, onto a ledge system that took us to the anchors of Boston/The Kracken, which are on the face behind a tree. From here we rapped with one 70m rope, and it was the perfect length to set us down at the left side of Cheap Wine Wall. Nothing less would do it without a downclimb. Apr 22, 2013
MattK
Baltimore, MD
MattK   Baltimore, MD
First bolt is rather run out, as with most bolted climbs at E-rock. First pitch is relatively straightforward. I carried an alpine draw that I clipped into the second belay station (which is somewhere b/w 30-40 ft above the first belay station) and kept moving. Like others, could not find the bolt line at a certain point high on the face, so I traversed right about 25-35 ft onto the black streak. There are bolts over there, and that's how I've done the route several times now. The traverse is poorly protected, but if you got through the first pitch, the moves over to the black streak shouldn't get you feeling too queazy. Can't speak to the descent of the route. I usually top out and find the rap station to the climber's right; it's well right of Sweat, as I recall. If you explore a few of the ledges on top of the main dome and you'll find them; they're in a safe location, so if you have to down-climb something sketchy, you've done something wrong. It's possible to rap from here with a single 70m (a 60m may work, but I can't say that I've tried it) and walk back to your gear at the base of the climb. Mar 2, 2013
Tom Reed
Dripping Springs, TX
 
Tom Reed   Dripping Springs, TX
 
It is NOT possible to reach the ground from the P1 anchors with a 60m rope. You need two ropes to rapel safely. With a 60m you either go up and finish the climb or potentially traverse left and down to the anchors at the fat man flake (easier than it looks route) and rapel from there. You will just barely make it to the slab ledge left of easier than it looks. you can down climb from there (class 2/3). Nov 2, 2012
Is it possible to rap from P1 anchors to ground with one 60m rope? Or are 2 required? Aug 13, 2012
Ayescotty9
  5.8+
Ayescotty9  
  5.8+
A great climb to introduce mult-pitch sport climbing technique with an experienced climber (if you can handle the single brief crux section that is). Jun 10, 2010
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.8+
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.8+
Nice route. Solid 5.8 moves at the start of Pitch #2. After completing the 2nd pitch, ended up going out far right for the 2nd pitch of Dome Driver and Boston to create a fun 3rd pitch link up on MOTB. Nov 9, 2009
I agree, .9- is about right for that second pitch. I did this as a second around the time I first started climbing and had a hard time. I could likely go back and ace it on lead now. I never saw the bolt line for the third pitch though, so we rapped down from there. Oct 18, 2007
D. Shaw
  5.9- PG13
D. Shaw  
  5.9- PG13
Very nice slab route. If you called the crux move 9-, you'd get no argument from me. Third pitch doesn't seem worth doing. Sep 11, 2007