Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 188 total · 1/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 15, 2006 with updates from abandon moderation
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


Mistakenly listed as "Anal Sex" in the Supertopo guide.
Climb a left leaning lieback, then climb face to the ledge.
Climb 5.8 face to the summit.


Gear from BD 0.5 to 4. An additional BD #5 makes the wide section at the top less heady. 


Floyd Hayes
  5.9 R
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9 R
The two pitches of "Anal Sex" in the SuperTopo guide were fun top-ropes and looked like they would be good leads. They deserve a formal name! We encountered a bunch of wasps guarding the diagonal crack on the upper part of the second pitch. Sep 13, 2011
abandon moderation   Tahoe
A BD 0.5 to #4 protects the climb, with an optional #5 making the wide top section casual.

Some placements are on hollow sounding rock, but it's safer than many other leads at the spires. May 6, 2018