[Hide Comment] 12b is sandbag, have tried to do this climb for many years,evan with beta from Pete Cleveland, there are of 12d's that are easer at the lake. Oct 19, 2005

[Hide Comment] 12b is a little on the sandy side. I think it all depends on how dynamic you want to climb the thing. I lead it in 97 with just a couple tries, and at the same time could do Bagatelle on command. I think 12c/d is probably pretty accurate. V6ish? But what do I know. Seth Dyer was kind and brave enough to give me a belay. Aug 15, 2006

[Hide Comment] This summer, I rapped down Steak Sauce to check out the gear. I found that the entire left side of the crack consists of an expando-type flake. It is entirely detached except for one small section. Others had told me that the flake was sketchy, but I didn't believe them until I looked at it for myself. I came to the conclusion that gear placed behind the flake would be dubious at best. Therefore. I think this climb deserves an R rating.

Does anyone have any info about this flake? Has anyone fallen on gear placed behind it? Oct 11, 2006

[Hide Comment] I had some good pieces below the flake, and some wires in the flake itself. I believe I took one small hang/fall on those wires in the flake. I will admit it is kind of spooky, but I can really only think of one .12 at DL that isn't. I sent it next try, sooo... I guess if you want to lead it, just be in good shape....Peace- Oct 14, 2006

[Hide Comment] Beta from Cleveland? That adds at least three letter grades to the difficulty!

Pete C. is one of the great competitors of all time! Jan 12, 2007

[Hide Comment] I led this on clean aid several years ago without hooks or iron mongery. It had very good gear. Small nuts down low (rp's) and small tcu's. Jan 13, 2007

[Hide Comment] This felt stupid hard today, anyone have some good beta?

The flake did some mean flexing and a few seconds after letting go it could be heard adjusting itself. You fucking led this Jeremy! Sick. Aug 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] I like this climb a lot! A very powerful crack climb. Aug 31, 2010

[Hide Comment] Tis a butt hard climb.... No feet at the crux to speak of.... some super technical moves to reach the square cut bottom edge of the upper easier hand jam. You get this climb and you feel pretty good. I could not imagine ever be able to lead this myself when attempting to complete it on TR. Aug 31, 2010

[Hide Comment] It would be nice if the fa info reflected the sequence...i.e.
f.a. on aid unknown aid climber
f.f.a. on tr Pete cleveland
f.f.a. on lead Rich bechler,Steve sangdahl,Dale moir.


This more acuratly reflects the history.
peace and f-nes ss Jan 6, 2011

[Hide Comment] This just feels impossible! Plus, that high RH finger lock is really painful. Apr 2, 2012

[Hide Comment] "Wrich, Don't even twy it, my pinky still aint wright."- Pete Cleveland explaining to Dave Groth and Rich Bechler how painful the slot was on the FFA. I think they went up and sent it the next day. As told to me by Dave over beers. Apr 2, 2012

[Hide Comment] Remo, I really enjoyed your Pete Cleveland voice. Apr 2, 2012

[Hide Comment] Thanks Andy. I actually got my story mixed up(must have been the beers). It was Rich and Dave telling me the story, and that was Rich's way of talking like Pete. Apr 3, 2012

[Hide Comment] Pete use to say the funny and damnedest things to us.
That must have been the 2nd time Pete told Old Rich Bechler to not even try it. The first time was when Rich ,Dale,and myself had tried toproping Steak sauce(Dave G was not present) At the time Pete use to let us bivy in his yard and get jacked.So we proceeded to ask him for his take on Steaksauce. Well he looked at us and declared in perfect Elmer Fudd speak...."You guys? Don't even bother. You'll never do it! It took me 10 years to toprope that climb and it wrecked my finger to boot!" Well the thing that stuck with us the most was "you'll never do it" (don't know if he was trying to motivate us...but I doubt it)
Anyway Rich pulls me aside and says"Steve we're not only gonna do it ,we're gonna lead it to boot" Game on. anyway next day Rich ,Dale and I toproped it and next weekend Rich and I both led it With Dale providing a trusty belay and his girlfreind lighting off bottle rockets each time we sent and then some(much to the consternation of the DNR who was patrolling tthe lake in a motorboat trying to figure out where the fireworks were coming from.Dave G. was not there for this episode. Peace and fuk-nes Steve Sangdahl

p.s. There is also the time Pete told us that nuts leave scars and all the holds are much larger now due to the hands and feet of many climbers,thus making all the climbs MUCH easier then when he did them....but thats another story Apr 4, 2012

[Hide Comment] Thanks for filling in the blanks Steve. It's really great to hear the history behind a lot of these routes. The climbs themselves might be really good, but the stories behind them make them even better. Cheers. Apr 4, 2012

[Hide Comment] Remo, thanks...like ya say it makes some of the routes even better knowing the history of the first ascents and some of the stories that go with the climbs and the scene at DL.
Peace and fuknes....steve s. Apr 6, 2012

[Hide Comment] Doing a little reminiscing... Steve, what year did you guys lead this? Early 80’s? Jun 18, 2020

[Hide Comment] JJ, Yes ,it would have been early 80’s. 1982 I believe.
That’s impressive you led it in a couple of tries. It’s pretty powerful.
Cheers. Jun 20, 2020

[Hide Comment] Thanks Steve. I was fresh off a six month road trip and a winter in Hueco Tanks. I also had a nice woody at home during this time which I spent hours on every day. This was definitely the scariest route I ever led at the Lake. Well, Cul de Sac Exit was scary but way easier than this thing. One to remember for sure. Jun 20, 2020