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Routes in Echo Cove - South Face

Allergy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atari T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Axe of Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bacon Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo Dog Band T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Special T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips Ahoy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
F.U.N. TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Dogs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of God T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flake and Bake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon-Bartlett T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horny Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J.B.'s Variation TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Life and Limb T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out on a Limb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Veto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poodle Skirt T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Possessed by Elvis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.M.L. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Riddler, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sabretooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sicker than Jezouin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sitting Here in Limbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Statute of Limbitations TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
TM's Terror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, December 1987
Page Views: 1,082 total, 8/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Sep 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is around the corner to the right from Axe Of Dog. It's a right-facing crack system just to the right of a large corner. The climb is a chimney/lieback and face route.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

C Miller   CA  
This photo does show the proper location of Sabretooth, which does not climb the obvious large corner system. Pay no attention to the 1992 guidebook photo as it's wrong.

The 1989 Guidebook Supplement actually shows the proper location of this route, which matches with Blitzo's photo and the original route description from Alan Nelson. Apr 24, 2012
BCramer
Prescott
BCramer   Prescott
It could be Blitzo's photo is correct. We climbed the route he's outlined this morning. We were using Vogel's 1992 guide and weren't planning to do the Sabertooth route he shows in it. Now at home and looking at Vogel's 1989 Supplement to his first guide I see that it shows Blitzo's line, so who knows?? We choose this line because it looked cool and wasn't in the guide we had with us. We started by climbing the right margin of a prominent "tooth" behind a pine tree (the "Sabertooth"? This feature and route name makes me think Blitzo's right here.) From its top is face climbing protected by gear in horizontals with an unprotected top out face above a ledge. I set up a belay here so I could spot my partner on the exit face. I'd call it 5.7/8, two stars. Apr 23, 2012
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
This is unusual because I believe MP does a great job with pics; however, I don't feel that the beta photo is accurate as the route is actually to the left more. Vogel's guide actually gives you a better idea of where to head on this route.
Here's my beta: The route offers a nice variety in a relatively short pitch. There's some fun moves throughout - a lie back that head towards a short chimney. The chimney is runout, but never fear... good feet up to great hands lead to the true prize of this climb - the top section. Gear fits in specific, but very secure locations. Tops out to a lovely view.
Be mindful on the first section of the walk down - especially for folks unaccustomed to infamous Josh walk downs. Some may find this fine and take it with ease. Know that there are some options to set a quick belay to eliminate what would be an ugly fall.
Overall, a super fun route that I don't think sees much traffic. Jan 10, 2010