PRINT: Rock Climb Over Easy, Lake Tahoe

Over Easy

5.7, Trad,

Avg: 3.2 from 212 votes
FA: George Connor, Ron Oravetz
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Phantom Spires > Middle Spire

Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures Details

While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.

Description

On the left side of the north face is a detatched flake with a roof above it.
Climb up the flake, pull the roof, move up the steep knobby face, up and right to a belay below a corner.
Follow the corner to the top.

Protection

to 2.5".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Phantom Spire >> Middle Spire >> Over Easy

Preparing to pull the roof on Over Easy

"Over Easy" link up with "Penny Candy", great two pitch route; can rap with a single 70 M rope.

finding the perfect hold

Climbing to the top of the flake to clip the bolt

Hey Mikey! I think he likes it!

navagating through the roof

So wild for the grade! Lead the section above the roof with only knob tie-offs for extra style points.

Under Over Easy

finally going over easy

A quick rest after slinging the knob, before pulling over the roof.

Pulling the roof on "Over Easy".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

Pulling the roof on "Over Easy". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO

A wild pitch for 5.7... Make sure you have 2-3 sling ready to tie off knobs for pro above the roof. You should definitely link this one into the Prow for a great 5.10 link-up. Oct 6, 2007

Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA

Didn't believe this was 5.7 until I climbed it. Solid jug on the roof and a heel hook get you over. Crux actually came before the roof for me, but I stemmed between this and the left-facing crack to the right. I'd recommend Hard Up as a better variation. Aug 25, 2009

Blitzo

5.7

A fun route. "Hard Up" is a better start. Aug 24, 2010

gen-eva
Salt Lake City

Very fun, perfect for a first-ever roof move! Harder than 5.7 if you're only 5'0" and have to throw for the (out-of-reach) knob and then hang one-handed before pulling it. Awesome!!

And yes, 'Hard Up' is a better start. Aug 25, 2012

Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV

I climbed this as a warm-up with an experienced partner, but the whole time I was climbing I couldn't stop thinking how this would be an awesome climb to take a first timer on.

The improbable, yet technically very easy roof, to the puzzle of knobs above make this one that would surely hook even the most skeptical of n00bs on the sport!

I thought this was a standout climb for the grade. Sep 24, 2013

Chris B.
San Francisco

Super fun route. Great holds and a fantastic move over the roof - pretty rare to get this kind of thing on a 5.7 in my opinion. Mental crux for me was slinging the knob on the lip of the roof - once that was done the rest was just plain fun. Oct 6, 2014

BruceB
Reno, NV

There is a newish a set of anchors at the top of this climb. Just below and in the center of the roof. The are hard to see from the ground. Jun 3, 2016

Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA

5.7

Fun little warmup! Plenty of ways to spice things up on the face by wandering to whatever feature looks cool to use. Jun 25, 2019

Lorenzo Riano
San Francisco

5.9+ PG13

I think this climb is harder than the grade. Getting to the roof is very tricky and the single bolt is placed so that a fall will hit the flake below. Once above the roof (easier than one might think) there's several knobs to tie off but the climbing always feel exposed. A fall would never be safe, regardless from where you are. I couldn't see the anchors for this climb so I a traversed left and used the nearby anchors. Jul 6, 2020

Cameron Cutting
San Francisco, CA

5.7

super fun, great roof pull with very positive holds. get those feet up! Stay right after the roof Nov 3, 2020