Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tom Beck
Page Views: 1,357 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? on Sep 12, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Description

An interesting 5.8 with a few awkward moves on razor sharp edges. It'll feel harder than 5.8 if you don't figure out some of the hidden, not so obvious moves right away. IMHO...your average 5.8/5.9 leader may not like it that much.
5.10 on up leaders probably wouldn't mind it as a warm up though, especially if their fingers are used to sharp limestone edges.

5 bolts to anchors.

Location

Located to the climbers' right of Pine In The Ass, just right of the rotten corner.
You can start up the small, rotten chimney/crack, then traverse right to first bolt or just climb straight up the low angle slab.

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Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.8+
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.8+
I totally agree with G's comments about this route. It's only worth your time if 'Pine' is too difficult for you to warm-up on... and then barely worth your time.

MM Sep 12, 2006
rex parker
las vegas n.v
  5.8
rex parker   las vegas n.v
  5.8
its possible to go 50 feet to the right and scramble up a little canyon and reach down and set up a toprope if you got some kids or some thing cause theirs not much else around in the area in the range or mnt charlston for that matter . Sep 16, 2006
Garrett Wilson
Henderson nevada
  5.8
Garrett Wilson   Henderson nevada
  5.8
This was one of my very first routes I've climbed. It definitely feels a little tricky for a 5.8 if that's what you usually lead. Some of the moves are obvious and some are a little tricky to figure out but it's not bad for new climbers like I was when I first tried it. Overall it's a decent sharp climb. Dec 23, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Are those chipped holds on the slab down low? Anyway, it's one slightly committing move to the jugs to the 2nd bolt, then its a fun 5.8 to the chains. Let the rock dictate your body english and things will magically happen. I didn't find it to be a difficult 5.8 Sep 28, 2018