PRINT: Rock Climb Smaug, Enchanted Tower

Smaug

5.10c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 7 votes
FA: Lance Hadfield
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Land Beyond > E Face

Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.

Description

Great holds with some pretty cool movement on this moderate route.

Location

3rd from the right on the face of the boulder toward the road.

Protection

Bolts & Chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Myself on Smaug working out the moves during an onsight attempt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

lance hadfield
tijeras

FA Lance Hadfield Mar 17, 2010

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

Surprisingly this route is one of the few that doesn't get any stars in the Enchanted Tower guide. I found it to be pretty good with fun movement and good stone. Only drawbacks are the clips seemed awkward and broke up the flow, and you don't end up clipping the last bolt, traverse right to shared anchors with Frodo. Apr 7, 2011

J. Albers
Colorado

5.10b/c

I was also surprised that this didn't get any stars in the Tower guide; I actually that it was a better route than either of the routes to the right or left. Fun climbing. Apr 26, 2011