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Routes in Rose Bud Wall

Big Medicine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dwight's White Christmas (a.k.a. The Brit Route) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Firewater S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Six Little Indians S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spinal Tap S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweat Lodge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wounded Knee S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Gogus
Page Views: 379 total, 3/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 11, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Big Medicine is the most challending line on the Rosebud Wall, rising straight up below the jutting gray prow that looms over the center of the cliff. This one is markedly more difficult than Sweat Lodge. The route begins very easily with big jugs on the slab. As the wall steepens, the difficulty increases, surmounting a series of bulges to some funky gastons and underclings that deliver you to an arm thread just below the lip of the wall. Rest well here as the finish is the real crux. Small, non-positive holds and technical moves lead over the bulge and onto the unnerving gray slab, where a few more insecure moves must be made to reach the anchor.

Location

Big Medicine is the 5th route from the left, or third from the right, beginning just left of the tree that grows at the base of the wall.

Protection

Bolts, Chain Anchor

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.11+
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.11+
Though I'd done this route several years before, this past weekend it took me as many tries to do this as Kootenai Crusier...UGH it is kind of hard and in your face at the top and different than your usual Sitting Bull fare. Oct 4, 2010