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Routes in Lost Boys

I Can Fly! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I wanna go home S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost My Marbles S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Plank, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seize the Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sleep or Awake? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 624 total · 4/month
Shared By: ScottH on Sep 11, 2006 with updates from Jack Waeschle
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice line with good movement. Climb the slightly overhanging wall of the initial dihedral to the slab above, then work up to another steep section moving out of the second dihedral. The crux is overcoming the initial bulge.

The second, slabby pitch of this route and the dike route above that would combine to make a nice 5.10 multi-pitch jaunt up the bulk of the wall.

Location

The second climb from the left side of Lost Boys.

Protection

Bolts. The fourth bolt on this climb is an abhorrent, awful, unforgivable example of lousy and unsafe bolting. There is no way to clip this bolt without loading your top biner directly over an edge. Bring a runner to girth hitch the bolt.

Photos

gregman
 
gregman  
 
If it weren't for that pesky crux right at the start...

Fortunately, the bolt is well placed, but may be a challenging clip if you are not very tall since the feet. It's also somewhat beta intensive (although we may have had a disadvantage because of the recent rain, which reduced some of our options), so don't be afraid to try a few different options...there's some good holds to help pull yourself up onto the slab, obtaining them just isn't extremely obvious from the ground. Jul 10, 2014

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