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Routes in Dorsal Crack Area

"Dorsal Crack" T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alice in Edge Land T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 84 total, 1/month
Shared By: Travis R. Thompson on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb a 40 ft. left facing crack to the top of the wall and belay from an evergreen tree. This climb is great for beginners to practice setting natural belays, using gear for the first time, and beats climbing that third class crap to the "Shark Fin Wall."

Location

About 40 yds. before the base of the Shark Fin Wall is a small face with a small evergreen at the top.

Protection

1 set of Stoppers / small cams.

Photos

JFM
  5.6
JFM  
  5.6
For the most part this is a 5.5, but the opening sequence is a bit strenuous for that grade.

Lots of loose stone on this route. Jun 8, 2016
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
This is a great solo route to the wall. Apr 21, 2009
allen simons  
 
Travis, the name is fine. I just never thought of naming it since the bigger rock was up the hill. I should climb it again though just for fun. al Sep 12, 2006
Travis R. Thompson
Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
Travis R. Thompson   Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
I should have figured that you had climbed it before. I didn't even think to write you first. I hope you don't mind the name I certainlly wasn't trying to step on anyones toes. Sep 11, 2006
allen simons  
 
Travis, I climbed this crack back in '95 or so. It could well have been climbed by someone prior to me however. I never named it. Sep 10, 2006
Travis R. Thompson
Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
Travis R. Thompson   Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
The best way to do this is take a set of stoppers, (you'll probably only need about two or three) climb the route and just "hip belay" around the tree at the top. It will give you plenty of friction to hold any fall that could possibly happen. If you do this, you can both finish the route in about 6-7 mins. It kind of makes you feel like a wanna be Hans Florine ;) (or something). Sep 9, 2006