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Routes in Bronto Rock

Buckeye T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crack N' Up T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junkie Thrill T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Penis Point-Peyronie’s Disease T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Riblet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stegasaurus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stinger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Alan Nelson and Denise Brown, January 1983
Page Views: 196 total · 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is a fun right-slanting crack on the southeast face. It is called "Junkie Thrill" in the 1992 Vogel guide.


light rack


Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
5.6 move at top Jun 5, 2012
Rodger Raubach  
The original Vogel guidbook (lavender one) called this Crack 'n' Up, as does the Bartlett guide. The rock is a bit crumbly and I gave this a 5.5 due to some of the holds crunching off...

This is a decent climb in order to set a top rope for "Stegasaurus." Nov 27, 2011
Kevin Craig
Kevin Craig  
Definitely not R though you want a #1, 2, and 3 Camalot for the top (if you like lots of gear like I do). Felt pretty similar grade-wise to New Toy (5.6) across the way, but I climbed it early season and I'm not a huge fan of off-width, thrutchy climbing. Definitely worth doing if you're in the area, plus you can TR Stegosaurus from the bolted top-anchor. Apr 12, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
Additional comment on Crack N' Up: it isn't any 5.4, as it is steep and kind of grungy, and the rock is crumbly. I'd agree with a 5.5-5.6 rating, but not the R suffix. Feb 28, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
I climbed this route in 1988 to set a toprope on "Stegasaurus," the line that can be seen forming an X with this route. "Stegasaurus" follows the dark , thin dike that is readily visible in the picture, and starts out as a thin crack at the bottom. Jun 28, 2010

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