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Routes in Bronto Rock

Buckeye T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crack N' Up T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junkie Thrill T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Penis Point-Peyronie’s Disease T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Riblet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stegasaurus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stinger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Alan Nelson and Denise Brown, January 1983
Page Views: 240 total · 2/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun right-slanting crack on the southeast face. It is called "Junkie Thrill" in the 1992 Vogel guide.

Protection

light rack

Photos

Rodger Raubach  
  5.5
I climbed this route in 1988 to set a toprope on "Stegasaurus," the line that can be seen forming an X with this route. "Stegasaurus" follows the dark , thin dike that is readily visible in the picture, and starts out as a thin crack at the bottom. Jun 28, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
  5.5
Additional comment on Crack N' Up: it isn't any 5.4, as it is steep and kind of grungy, and the rock is crumbly. I'd agree with a 5.5-5.6 rating, but not the R suffix. Feb 28, 2011
Kevin Craig
  5.6
Kevin Craig  
  5.6
Definitely not R though you want a #1, 2, and 3 Camalot for the top (if you like lots of gear like I do). Felt pretty similar grade-wise to New Toy (5.6) across the way, but I climbed it early season and I'm not a huge fan of off-width, thrutchy climbing. Definitely worth doing if you're in the area, plus you can TR Stegosaurus from the bolted top-anchor. Apr 12, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.5
The original Vogel guidbook (lavender one) called this Crack 'n' Up, as does the Bartlett guide. The rock is a bit crumbly and I gave this a 5.5 due to some of the holds crunching off...

This is a decent climb in order to set a top rope for "Stegasaurus." Nov 27, 2011
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
5.6 move at top Jun 5, 2012

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