Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Charlie Kardaleff
Page Views: 1,824 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 7, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


80 Opinions

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Description

The Racing Babies (10b) line ascends into the trunk corner, flits left onto the arete tackling the mini-roof with monster Thailand style jugs before the 1 bolt mid anchor. Thus continue into Lounging Like a Roman (10b/c) by flit-ing back right (you've now bypassed the 11a line of 'Crossbow Chaos Theory'). Move up into the bulge above stemming against the right wall -- or not. May be 10c if you don't stem.

Location

The Trunk Corner is just past and around the corner from the Big Kahuna Pillar (still before the rounded Matrix Pillar. Racing babies heads up the main Trunk Corner, before exiting left across and below the roof to the left arete. The direct line is Chaos Crossbow Theory (11a) another great line.

Protection

12 bolts to anchors. Mid anchor is only a single bolt.

Photos

Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
 
Bryson Slothower   Portland, OR
 
worth doing just to pull on the weird tuffa-like holds at the roof. Sep 7, 2006
sheree
Odgen, UT
 
sheree   Odgen, UT
 
It would be worthwhile to clip the first on this climb. Nasty ground fall potential. Also the last bolt is bad and should be replaced. Fun Movement the whole way up! Jul 15, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Bit of a slopey start to a RAD horn feature, really cool arete climbing above. Thought this one was spectacular. Sep 13, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
My favorite on this wall, slippery and insecure at the start though... Sep 6, 2016
Rob Albert
  5.10b PG13
Rob Albert  
  5.10b PG13
Please fix the description - there is now a completely separate and fully independent anchor on this climb! DO NOT cross over to the other line, stay completely on the arete/ corner and go through some sharp limestone at the top. Super amazing, really fun, but DO stick clip that first bolt! Aug 27, 2017