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Routes in Big Kahuna Pillar

Crossbow Chaos Theory S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eldorado Coral Club, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glug Glug, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
May It Serve You Well S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Notorious BCG S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pre-Spice Blow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Racing Babies / Lounging Like a Roman S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roman at the Games S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take This Brother S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Homey Ain't Here Deer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Charlie Kardaleff
Page Views: 1,689 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 7, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

The Racing Babies (10b) line ascends into the trunk corner, flits left onto the arete tackling the mini-roof with monster Thailand style jugs before the 1 bolt mid anchor. Thus continue into Lounging Like a Roman (10b/c) by flit-ing back right (you've now bypassed the 11a line of 'Crossbow Chaos Theory'). Move up into the bulge above stemming against the right wall -- or not. May be 10c if you don't stem.

Location

The Trunk Corner is just past and around the corner from the Big Kahuna Pillar (still before the rounded Matrix Pillar. Racing babies heads up the main Trunk Corner, before exiting left across and below the roof to the left arete. The direct line is Chaos Crossbow Theory (11a) another great line.

Protection

12 bolts to anchors. Mid anchor is only a single bolt.

Photos

Rob Albert
  5.10b PG13
Rob Albert  
  5.10b PG13
Please fix the description - there is now a completely separate and fully independent anchor on this climb! DO NOT cross over to the other line, stay completely on the arete/ corner and go through some sharp limestone at the top. Super amazing, really fun, but DO stick clip that first bolt! Aug 27, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
My favorite on this wall, slippery and insecure at the start though... Sep 6, 2016
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Bit of a slopey start to a RAD horn feature, really cool arete climbing above. Thought this one was spectacular. Sep 13, 2015
sheree
Odgen, UT
 
sheree   Odgen, UT
 
It would be worthwhile to clip the first on this climb. Nasty ground fall potential. Also the last bolt is bad and should be replaced. Fun Movement the whole way up! Jul 15, 2013
worth doing just to pull on the weird tuffa-like holds at the roof. Sep 7, 2006