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Circus in the Wind

5.11a/b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 491 votes
FA: Charlie Kardaleff 2004
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Circus Wall
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

I climb for routes like this! Five stars! Awesome movement on pockets, sidepulls, crimps will make you grin from ear to ear! A couple of thin moves lead to a sidepull flake near the top. Get ready to rumble as the holds close down to a few crimps and knobs just before the chains.'

An actual route description: the second left crack and flake system on the wall. Clip the first bolt from the ground. Make your way via flakes, intermittent cracks and large pockets up the ever steepening wall to final crux moves at the anchor. Some of the holds out right may overlap with the 12d so time your send with others. 

Location

On the left side of the main Circus Wall. Just right of I Love the Big Top (5.9) and to the left of the 'Circus in my Pants'(12c). Starts on the right facing obvious layback flake.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Taking it slow on the jugs down low
[Hide Photo] Taking it slow on the jugs down low
Sweet place to be even in the sun.
[Hide Photo] Sweet place to be even in the sun.
Happy top roping trails on Circus In The Wind (11.a). This was my warm up for the day and I was happy, happy! This is a nice crag to visit if you're hungry for a climb early in the day in Ten Sleep.
[Hide Photo] Happy top roping trails on Circus In The Wind (11.a). This was my warm up for the day and I was happy, happy! This is a nice crag to visit if you're hungry for a climb early in the day in Ten Sleep.
Shayna styling Circus in the Wind.
[Hide Photo] Shayna styling Circus in the Wind.
Great route!
[Hide Photo] Great route!
Great climb.
[Hide Photo] Great climb.
Nearing the finish for his onsight.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the finish for his onsight.
I Love The Big Top & Circus In The Wind
[Hide Photo] I Love The Big Top & Circus In The Wind
Circus in the wind is the bolt line on the left.  Slightly overhanging and pure juggy goodness!
[Hide Photo] Circus in the wind is the bolt line on the left. Slightly overhanging and pure juggy goodness!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

m.wendling
5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] i think you meant to the left of the "wendling" route; aka. Circus in My Pants (12-) Apr 18, 2007
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Wow, I just couldn't help myself with the running commentary as I lead this up... "this is great!", "super fun" , awesome holds.. Loved it! Sep 1, 2008
David HH
CR, CO
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] This route is an absolute CLASSIC! I found the crux to be getting past the last bolt. The pump just kept gaining on me, this is as good as low sport 11 gets. Jul 26, 2009
[Hide Comment] circus in the wind is rated in the guide book as a 11c Aug 17, 2010
Dylan Demyanek
Baltimore, MD
 
[Hide Comment] Maybe my favorite route at Ten Sleep so far. Really fun, juggy, pumpy climbing. Crux at the bitter end. Sep 6, 2016
Tim Trippel
Worland, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Fantastic 11. Sustained. Crux between 6th and 7th bolt. With difficult going to top. May 16, 2017
Snook Chaipornvadee
Bangkok, TH
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Cool route. Would be a great 5.11 breakthrough route because there's no hard crux and the route isn't too long. Aug 18, 2017
Sam Forrest
Phoenix, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] What an awesome route! Might be the most fun 5.11 I've ever climbed. You have to stay one step ahead of the pump on this one, because it stays on you all the way to the chains, with the crux at the very last clip.
FYI - you can access the anchors very easily by climbing the 5.9 next door, so there is literally no reason not to do this route! Sep 12, 2017
Nathan Devan
Sandy, SLC UT
[Hide Comment] vih vih VIHdeo

youtube.com/watch?v=CWwcD6n… Jul 12, 2021
[Hide Comment] If you know what you are doing, it's very possible to set up an anchor for TR or put up draws by climbing the 5.9 next door. Jul 5, 2024