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Dope Shinto

5.12a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 189 votes
FA: Wendling
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > French Cattle R… > Sector Shinto
Access Issue: No New Route Development & Existing Route Impacts. Details

Description

This thin little beast lives the name. Ride a thin bouldery start past the first bolt. The climbing stays thin but provides better feet for most of the line, but watch out for continuous dope climbing on flawless rock to the chains. Solid or even hard at the grade.

Location

Located on the far left side of the wall. Look for a 2-3 foot high detached flake at the base. Just right of an arete line (100,000 miles).

Protection

9 bolts to anchors w/ rings

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Erica almost through the crux
[Hide Photo] Erica almost through the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Great climbing. More powerful, bigger moves than Center Shinto. Probably 12a. Sep 10, 2012
dnoB ekiM
Kentucky
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Classic! Amazing rock. I felt like the moves and clip of the last bolt were the crux...more so than the bottom (given the pump). Great great line! Jun 22, 2014
Mississippi James
Riverside by way of the dir…
[Hide Comment] This is climb is the DOPE SHIT that's fo sho! Climbs on an absolutely beautiful bullet hard limestone streak! A must do in the canyon.. SWEETNESS! Jul 6, 2016
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
 
[Hide Comment] This one is pretty light, relative to the others on the wall. I guess still 12a just because of the finger strength entry fee and awkward finish. Dec 8, 2018
[Hide Comment] Boulderers will love this. Cruxy through bolt 4, then mellows out. I didn't find the ending moves to be awkward... just keep it together. Aug 17, 2019
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Maybe the best line on the wall? Consistent movement up high coupled with the boulder down low makes this a light duty 12a yet still an undisputed classic in the area! Jul 10, 2020