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Dope Shinto

5.12a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 324 votes
FA: Wendling
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > French Cattle R… > Sector Shinto
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Description

This thin little beast lives the name. Ride a thin bouldery start past the first bolt. The climbing stays thin but provides better feet for most of the line, but watch out for continuous dope climbing on flawless rock to the chains. Solid or even hard at the grade.

Location

Located on the far left side of the wall. Look for a 2-3 foot high detached flake at the base. Just right of an arete line (100,000 miles).

Protection

9 bolts to anchors w/ rings

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Angie enroute to her redpoint send of Dope Shinto
[Hide Photo] Angie enroute to her redpoint send of Dope Shinto
Erica almost through the crux
[Hide Photo] Erica almost through the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Great climbing. More powerful, bigger moves than Center Shinto. Probably 12a. Sep 10, 2012
Mike Bond
Kentucky
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Classic! Amazing rock. I felt like the moves and clip of the last bolt were the crux...more so than the bottom (given the pump). Great great line! Jun 22, 2014
Mississippi James
Riverside by way of the dir…
[Hide Comment] This is climb is the DOPE SHIT that's fo sho! Climbs on an absolutely beautiful bullet hard limestone streak! A must do in the canyon.. SWEETNESS! Jul 6, 2016
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
 
[Hide Comment] This one is pretty light, relative to the others on the wall. I guess still 12a just because of the finger strength entry fee and awkward finish.

2023: Lmao at my sanctimony, I'm sure it's just fine. Dec 8, 2018
[Hide Comment] Boulderers will love this. Cruxy through bolt 4, then mellows out. I didn't find the ending moves to be awkward... just keep it together. Aug 17, 2019
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Maybe the best line on the wall? Consistent movement up high coupled with the boulder down low makes this a light duty 12a yet still an undisputed classic in the area! Jul 10, 2020
Eric Bluemn
Boise, ID
 
[Hide Comment] The open cold shut on this route is starting to get pretty worn; I donated a biner to keep the wear off the anchor but it should probably be replaced. The other chain and biner were in good shape. Great route. Oct 4, 2021
Thomas Gilmore
Where the climate suits my…
[Hide Comment] Almost a year later...the anchors are becoming borderline dangerous. Left shut is worn 2/3 the way through and appears to be sharp. Right hanger just has a single aluminum carabiner. This route needs an anchor upgrade ASAP. In the meantime I would highly suggest bringing a few leaver biners; one could help prevent your rope from twisting at the anchor and if your are super safety conscious, leave one on the last bolt as a back up for the jank shut. Aug 30, 2022
JohnWesely Wesely
Lander
 
[Hide Comment] The route is incredible. Absolutely perfect rock and very fun moves from the bottom to the top. Much harder than Center Shinto IMO. The people saying this thing is easy must have vice grips for fingers or something. Its on you for the first four bolts. Aug 10, 2023
Random Climber
Front Range
 
[Hide Comment] The anchor on this rig is pretty bogus- by far the worst anchor I clipped on my visit. Don’t be shocked if that shut starts to bend out this season. A shame, because this one’s a beaut and absolutely worth your time- 4 stars for sure. Aug 12, 2023