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Routes in Vietnam

Agent Orange S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bikini Girls with Machine Guns S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bikini Wax S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flashback S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hanoi Hilton S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Napalm Crack Whore S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Napalm Death S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pussy Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saigon Sheraton S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stop Talkin' and Start Chalkin' S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Huey
Page Views: 610 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 7, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Sneaky moves lead up to a stopper crux on this line. Get ready for a big toss from sweet holds to a not so sweet hold. A few more attention getting moves lead to a fun run-out to the chains.

The most obvious moves up the scoop seemed to be off to the side of the bolts adding some pucker factor, and stop the presses! I found an alternate to the obvious big toss at the crux! So pick your poison. The grade is probably solid for the toss, and maybe a bit soft for the sneak around the toss. Either way its a great ride.

Location

Located on the left side of the Vietnam Wall, two routes to the left of Bikini Girls. Climbs obvious scoop to bulge. Starts w/ shoulder height ledge w/ jugs and low 1st bolt.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor w/ rings.

Photos

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EChristensen
Bozeman
  5.12a/b
EChristensen   Bozeman
  5.12a/b
To elaborate on the description a little: It appears the original line follows the bolts via two sets of double barrel pockets, then left to the obvious jug rail. But, it seems much easier to follow a line of pockets and crimps about 5 feet left of the third bolt. Also, the dyno mentioned in the book (from the jug rail up and right) is very contrived and much harder than going to a good left hand pinch. Long story short, if you take the path of least resistance left of the bolt line it's more like 12a - just don't fall at the third bolt or it would be a nasty pendulum. Jul 25, 2012