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Routes in Pogue's Cave Area

Blessed and Blissed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buzz Lightyear S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funk Shui S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Houkah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jeremy Fisher S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Labour of Love S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merlins Mantra S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Never Never Land S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Now and Zen S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ooey Gooey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
POGy WOG S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Party Pogues S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pogue's Arete S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prima Donna S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tale of Jemima Puddleduck, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tweedle Dee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tweedle Dum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jeff Jackson and company
Page Views: 99 total · 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Sep 6, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

An enticing line which starts at the back of Pogues cave. It is essentially a traverse, except cramped up under the roof. There is no simple way to back-clean/top-rope the route, and the second risks as big falls as the leader. Plus there is extensive guano on some sections. If all this doesn't turn you off, then you're in for an exciting and worthwhile route.

The major difficulties lay in the traverse section. Once the 4th bolt (the last bolt under the roof) is passed the climbing becomes easier. Beware as the rock is quite loose underneath the chimney section.

Location

Start all the way in the back of Pogues cave on the right hand wall (facing in). Be sure to search out all the bolts before starting as they are not entirely obvious. Flashlight optional.

Protection

6 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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