Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Al Simons
Page Views: 106 total · 1/month
Shared By: allen simons on Sep 6, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Climbing for Dummies is a crash course in old chimmney technique to slab climbing to verticle jug hauling. Start around the corner 20 feet left of Chicken Head Hop. Chimmney up 15 feet (5.6) to the grassy ledge and walk a few feet up to the base of the slab. Start under the first bolt and slab up (8+) past 3 bolts to a balancy stance under bolt # 4. Clip it and climb vertical up past 5 bolts. It is a bit of a jug haul with a couple of 5.8 moves, the last one just above the last bolt 8 feet from the two bolt anchor. This is a fun, pumpy, little bugger with three distinct types of climbing.

Location

About midway up the east side of Bobcat Ridge, 20 feet left or downhill and around the corner from Chicken Head Hop.

Protection

8 bolts, no other gear to a two bolt anchor. A standard rope gets you to within 5 feet of the ground on the rappel. 60 meter rope is better to use.

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