Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,487 total · 63/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Sep 5, 2006
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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Climb up the middle of the North Face via obvious right facing corners and flake systems to the bowl.

Start under an arch near the bottom of the face a trend up and left heading for the corners above. Climb the corners for 3 or 4 pitches (some large gear is nice).

From the bowl good route finding will allow you to reach the summit with few difficulties.

Walk off to the Southwest.


pro to 4"


George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
A fun route and not sustained at 5.9.

FA: Dick Dorworth and Sibylle Hechtel, 1972 Jul 25, 2007
jayci Ferrimani
jayci Ferrimani   Flagstaff
The corner discribed above is more of a giant flake. I felt that getting to this flake was the crux of the climb. Once in it you are led straight up to the bowl. I didin't feel that any pitch was harder than any other once you are climbing the main feature. Apr 9, 2008
sibylle Hechtel
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
We didn't have any large gear, since it didn't exist ... I think all we had was stoppers and hexes.
It was barely my second season of leading, and I was very inexperienced. Dorworth pointed to where I was to go and sent me up .... I borrowed someone's parka, which was lucky since we got caught in a huge thunderstorm in the dark, at the summit. Mar 1, 2010
sibylle Hechtel
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
I wrote about our first ascent here:
funclimbsaroundtheworld.com… Nov 14, 2011
I thought the climbing on this route was better than the Northeast Face of Pingora for basically the same grade. The 5.9 is one well protected wide lieback section. This is how we did the route, route finding was straight forward in my opinion

Pitch 1: Find a detached pillar at far right of the overhangs, climb left side of pillar and traverse over to roof. Pull the roof and climb a wide ugly grass filled crack to a nice ledge (5.7)

Pitch 2: Head straight up on easy terrain to another roof with a crack shooting left, pull roof and follow nice finger crack left to a belay on top of a pillar (5.8)

Pitch 3: Head straight up a right facing dihedral to the apex and pull roof to the left, follow left leaning crack /groove to a belay at a mess of slings around a pillar (5.8)

Pitch 4: Head out and left around pillar to enter the obvious crack/flake system above, follow really fun flakes to a wide lieback crux (#4 nice but not essential), belay directly above on a ledge. Long pitch (5.9)

Pitch 5: Follow corner/flakes up through an easy chimney section and belay shortly after on a grass ledge. Another long pitch (5.7)

Pitch 6: Follow flakes up and right, as the flake system arches into a roof and the rock gets a bit rotten, step out right onto the face and follow great holds up and round the roof to 4th class terrain into the upper bowl. Run the rope out to a belay (5.8)

Pitch 7: Climb up an obvious trough/chimney on the left side of the bowl a full rope length to a ledge below the fang of rock (5.4)

Pitch 8: Climb up steep delicate flakes out the roof into 4th class terrain and belay when comfortable (5.6)

Descent: Scramble up and left for a good ways crossing an exposed notch to the plateau below the true summit. Head down grassy slopes towards North Lake until you can see the shoulder of the southwest slopes up to your right. Head up a couple hundred vertical feet to the shoulder and then descent directly to Jackass Pass on easy grassy slopes.

Rack: nuts, and doubles from fingers to #3 and a single #4 Aug 21, 2012
sibylle Hechtel
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
I think one can easily climb this without the #3 or #4 - I wouldn't want to carry in the big heavy gear!
We had no Cams in 1972, climbed the route using stoppers and hexes, and neither of us were super climbers, certainly not in 1972! Sep 15, 2013
Chris Dickson
Sometimes Lander and someti…
Chris Dickson   Sometimes Lander and someti…
It seems as if there are several different ways to gain the R-facing corner/flake system that constitutes the main business of this climb. We seemed to be just left of the route described above, until we linked back up with it on our 4th pitch. The corner pitch is AWESOME. I highly recommend you do the entire corner to the ledge in one long pitch. Save the big gear for the very end because that is where the crux is. There is a stuck hex up in the wideness, but you'd probably need 6ft long arms to clip it. I placed a #3 at the crux (you have a nice foot ledge to place from) before entering the final wide moves in the corner. What a pitch!

Also, the descent: from the notch (climbing straight up logical 4th class gets you here), look straight ahead toward several ridge. Cross grassy 3rd class across the top of one large gully and onto another ridge. From here, you will see another obvious notch in the next ridge to the south, scramble over to this notch, descend into that next gully and follow this down to grassy meadows that contour back to the skier's right to the top of Jackass Pass. Aug 4, 2015
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Chris, thanks for the descent beta: spot on. I would only add: expect to traverse at least 100+ meters from the ridge above the route before seeing the '"obvious notch."

I found Joe Kelsey's topo and beta most useful. Aug 1, 2017