Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 733 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Sep 4, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Two of the guides I had with me supplied conflicting information on this route (5.9+ vs. 5.10d). It didn't take me long to figure out which was incorrect. I was already tired from climbing all day and got so pumped that I lost count of my falls, and resorted to a french-free to make up for lost ground. I ended up traversing to the arete to make it to the neighboring route's chains. I'm sorry I can't provide more information than this for this route, but at least I can prevent aspiring 5.9 leaders from getting in way over their heads. Scramble up the left side of the flake/boulder to the 2 belay chains. Take the left bolt line. Enjoy the dirty solution pockets!

Location

Between the Engagement Alcove and Petroglyph Wall, a large flake/boulder sits just right of an arete. The route starts on top of the boulder. Rappel off the 2 chain anchor.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 chain anchor.

Photos

Brian Koralewski
Springville, UT
  5.10d
Brian Koralewski   Springville, UT
  5.10d
Definitely a 10d. So many sustained moves in a row without any decent rest. Finally some good holds near the top, but by then your pumped out of your brains. Great climb. However, a few loose small rocks were found and some dirty rocks. I think the belay stance on the boulder keeps this climb unclimbed- shame, such a good climb. Nov 7, 2009