Left of Center Route
5.5,
Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.6 from 13
votes
FA: unknown
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Mule Hollow Wall
Description
Route finding is the crux on this route, as there are so many cracks to choose from. Don't wander too much, unless you bring a lot of long runners to reduce rope drag. The Ruckman guide says that Left of Center is runout, but I didn't have any problems finding adequate protection. Lots of buckets to pull up on. I can count the number of times I didn't have a hold for each limb on one hand. Fabulous climbing for the grade, with long pitches and superb scenery from the top. Continuous and clean, this route is well worth the grueling approach.
Location
About 125 feet left of Jam Crack Route and 40 feet left of Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed. Find the high point on the ledge and find a short vertical crack that leads to the larger diagonalling crack. There is a tree-filled ledge two-thirds of the way up. Aim for the left side of the large gap in the trees. There is a small cave in the middle of the route that isn't visible until you climb over it. The route finishes with a fist crack that continues over the top of the wall. Hike to the south for the walk-off (NOT the first gully) or walk up the ledge (North) and do the 5 rappels on Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed.
Protection
Standard rack, save some larger pieces for the wide crack at the top. No bolts, pitons, slings or chains. All gear belays.
[Hide Photo] Adam Symonds nearing the top of the first pitch of the Left of Center route.
[Hide Photo] Ryan clipping the pro.
[Hide Photo] Ben, looking for his next move on our second pitch. We climbed past the tree-filled ledge for our belay.
[Hide Photo] A view of the fist crack from the top of the wall.
[Hide Photo] View of tree-filled ledge at two-thirds height from Left of Center. Pictured is the location of the third rappel station on Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed.