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Pre-Spice Blow

5.10+, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 158 votes
FA: Charlie Kardaleff 2003
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > French Cattle R… > Big Kahuna Pillar
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

This wild ride takes you up the edge of the pillar and into the recess between the pillar and the main wall then back out again onto a huge fin. Start on the face and climb straight up gaining the arete. Do not stem out to the main wall or you will feel like a looser and your belayer will probably take a rock to the head. If you do stem it's 10.c, but don't it's not cleaned for stemming.
Follow bolts weaving around the arete and finish back on the face, long and varied, definitely memorable!

Location

Far side of the pillar towards Matrix

Protection

14 bolts (couple longer draws or slings)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Zane Winter onsighting
[Hide Photo] Zane Winter onsighting
Kip enjoying the climb between walls.
[Hide Photo] Kip enjoying the climb between walls.
em stemming the top section
[Hide Photo] em stemming the top section
low on the route
[Hide Photo] low on the route
Around the corner, interesting rock.
[Hide Photo] Around the corner, interesting rock.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alexander Stathis
Chattanooga, TN
 
[Hide Comment] My partner and I both thought this climb was pretty dope. Not sure why it doesn't get more stars, maybe it needed some climbing to get cleaned up? Either way, good times. Avoid stemming and the grade feels just right. Sep 4, 2020
Eric Bluemn
Boise, ID
 
[Hide Comment] FYI the open cold shut on this route is starting to get pretty worn but is backed up by a bomb-proof mussey hook. Nice route. Oct 4, 2021
Peter Czoschke
Bloomington, MN
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] There is no loose rock on the right wall any more as far as I can tell, probably because everyone has been stemming, which I highly recommend despite the description. It's pretty contrived not to use that wall - it's right there! Definitely not 10c then, but so what? I stemmed plenty and have no regrets. I thought it was a fantastic and somewhat unique "adventure" climb. Super fun! Aug 12, 2024