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Routes in Big Kahuna Pillar

Crossbow Chaos Theory S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eldorado Coral Club, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glug Glug, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
May It Serve You Well S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Notorious BCG S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pre-Spice Blow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Racing Babies / Lounging Like a Roman S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roman at the Games S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take This Brother S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Homey Ain't Here Deer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: CK
Page Views: 1,217 total, 9/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Sep 4, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

This wild ride takes you up the edge of the pillar and into the recess between the pillar and the main wall then back out again onto a huge fin. Start on the face and climb straight up gaining the arete. Do not stem out to the main wall or you will feel like a looser and your belayer will probably take a rock to the head. If you do stem it's 10.c, but don't it's not cleaned for stemming.
Follow bolts weaving around the arete and finish back on the face, long and varied, definitely memorable!

Location

Far side of the pillar towards Matrix

Protection

14 bolts (couple longer draws or slings)

Photos

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Feels more like 5.9 when stemming... but still totally worth doing! Awesome position and great climbing. Right side seemed pretty clean if you pay attention. Good one for the morning shade FCR circuit, along with Euro Trash Girl/Werewolves of London/Crossbow Chaos Theory (among others). Sep 17, 2012