Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, September, 2002, FL: Al Swanson, Steve Gerberding, Bill Serniuk, May 2006
Page Views: 1,643 total · 11/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 4, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details

Description

Located about 50' left of Energy Crisis. Start in a gully, traverse right to a bolt. Follow 4 more bolts to a two bolt anchor. The traverse to the first bolt is a bit cruxy. Another crux is found at the third bolt. A fun climb!

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Fun, but the grainy (and flaking) rock and bird shit detracts from the experience somewhat. With more traffic this would clean up nicely. The anchors are camo'd, so they are a bit hard to spot. They are a ways above the last bolt - above a horizontal crack and on a big ledge. The crux is definitely traversing into the first bolt, and the exfolating rock doesn't inspire confidence. Apr 19, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
I led the route today with one of the FA team-members and followed the beta for the start. I have to say that the traverse over was quite crumbly.

Contrary to what the description says, the crux really seems to be maneuvering past the second bolt not really the third. I went right using a mantle & high step which was pretty solid.

On the way down I tried the crux moves using edges on the left which also works at about the same grade.

In addition, the start can be done straight up and is no harder (IMO) plus it's a better fall and the rock is cleaner.

Giant welded shuts for the anchor. Enjoy, I did.

~Susan May 30, 2008
Murf
 
Murf  
 
Crux is the start, coming in from the left is plain scary. Straight up is fairly hard, and needs traffic to solidify. Be aware this is no sport route, not that its being advertised as such. We all did the mantle move suze describes at the second bolt. It worth doing just to check out the amount of bird shit. It is truly epic! Oct 20, 2008
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.9
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.9
Pretty good route and slowly but surely flaking off enough to be enjoyable. Getting to the first bolt seemed trivial at best. You early ascenters must have taken off all the really loose stuff before I got there. Crux is for sure at the second bolt, and there are a couple of nice pulls passing the last bolt on the faux headwall. Going from the last bolt to the anchors is super easy, but run out on some large grainy and suspect holds. Oct 31, 2010
David Lyons
Forest Falls, CA
 
David Lyons   Forest Falls, CA
 
I found this route quality - great movement and protected enough to not flood your pants, but not quite a sport climb either. Heading straight up to the first bolt was challenging but doable, amazing to commit your feet and succeed. Cool moves on the lower section, and I admit to placing a tricam in the horizontal before the final bolt. Neat balance shifting on the way past to the anchors. I found this so much more fun than Zzzz, IMHO. Feb 17, 2014
Bob Gaines  
 
FA(toprope): Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, September, 2002.

We named it The Big Apple Oct 12, 2015
Dustin Stephens
  5.10
Dustin Stephens  
  5.10
Good climbing afterth first bolt, crumbly junk up to there and harder than 10a. Beware the loose block near the, a few medium sized pieces for horizontals are useful. Oct 29, 2017