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Routes in Monte Cristo

Down South T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett and Michael Franklin, April 1983
Page Views: 961 total · 7/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Many 4th class snow or snow/rock ridge pitches to get to the south face of Monte Cristo. We did this in basically winter conditions and used ice axe and crampons to climb on the lower pitches, though the face was dry with some snow ledges encountered. We climbed in Mountain boots/crampons. Other seasons would facilitate using climbing shoes.

I enter this ascent now, as Franklin has passed on as other fine alpinists have and he shared with me a deep love for alpine exploration at a time in the Wasatch when many people thought the place was "climbed out". Seems strange now, but still so many "alpine routes" in the late winter or spring still await.

Location

Middle of the south face of the South Summit of Monte Cristo Peak just to the west of Superior Peak. Descent was via South East Ridge of Superior but easier to descend the East Ridge to Alta.

Protection

We left a few pitons fixed, I remember. Nuts and cams would work well.

Photos

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Mulch
SLC, Utah
Mulch   SLC, Utah
Is the approach doable in the summer? Sep 13, 2017