Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.5 from 17
FA: Joanne Urioste, Jorge Urioste May 1980.
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rock
> 11-Juniper Canyon
> Cloud Tower
Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Test Tube is an outstanding handcrack and chimney climb.
Pitch one goes up the obvious corner system with juggy holds on the sides. Soon, the rock becomes glass-like, and the only feature left is a killer hand crack that widens into a chimney.
Pitches two and three continue up the chimney to the top of the pillar. These pitches are about 80 feet each.
Rappel the route to the right, Spare Rib, with one 60m rope.
Test Tube is in the prominent right-facing dihedral about 30 feet left of Spare Rib and about 100 yards left of Crimson Chrysalis.
Bring a generous rack for the first pitch with an emphasis on #0.75 to #2 Camalots. We didn't need anything larger than a #3 on any pitch of this climb. There is no fixed gear or bolts.
Test Tube and Spare Rib
View up the 3rd pitch
Me somewhere on p2
View out Test Tube.