Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Day, Tom Seibert, 1974
Page Views: 6,628 total · 43/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

66 Opinions

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Looking southwest form the Gladie Visitor Center in he middle of the Red River Gorge you'll see Jewel Pinnacle. It is a distinct spire on the south side of the river. The route follows the crack that goes just right of the cat's nose and then between it's eyes to the summit.

At the base of the pinnacle you'll know the route when you find the steep dihedral that seems to go all the way to the top.

The ultimate crux of the route is the mid section of the thankfully short first pitch. If it were cleaner the first pitch would be much cooler.

The intermediate belay is on a comfy ledge, but you can build a nice gear anchor in a horizontal and "hang" on it.

You'll need a #4 or #4.5 camalot for the start of the second pitch but other than that the gear is mostly mid sizes. Just bring plenty of duplicates.

You can rap from the goofy anchors of scramble down to the southwest and then rap from the vegetated ledge off to the east. Beware of copperheads near the rap.
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
You can run P1&2 together without much drag if you are comfortable running it out a little and using long runners. Nov 1, 2006
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
It's also possible to walk-off this route by scrambling down towards the Copperhead route from the top - no need to rappel. Jun 4, 2007
Matt Thorum
Urbana, IL
Matt Thorum   Urbana, IL
There is now a well extended and equalized webbing rappel anchor at the top of the route so you can easily rappel back down to the base with a 60m rope and pull the rope with no trouble. Thanks to whomever set this up. Jun 14, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
In the late 70s we used to hike out to this spot from Chimney Top road. It was considered a real test of your "Gorge sense" to be able to thread your way across the ridges to find it! Nov 4, 2009
Great line, best 5.6 in the Red. The bottom is a little dirty sometimes. New anchors now with extended chains so you can rap off without getting your rope stuck. Also you can put a .75 cam in the back of the wide part at the start of the 2nd pitch. Jul 11, 2012
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, AZ
Kevin Wagner   Tucson, AZ
Careful! There is a wasp nest in the summit register container. Apr 30, 2013
David Tennant
Denver, CO
David Tennant   Denver, CO
The added anchors were perfect to repel the entire route with just one 60m rope. Ran into the guys that bolted it which was also pretty cool. There's a registry on top too. Need at minimum a #4 or I used #5 bd c4 size for the start of second pitch or else it's super sketchy because it took a good 20ft above the belay ledge to place anything smaller. Although higher there were some nice nut placements. Aug 5, 2013
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Gotta say, I'm sad to hear that convenience anchors have shown up in such an out-of-the-way place. Aug 6, 2013
Jason Eicholtz
Fort Wayne, IN
Jason Eicholtz   Fort Wayne, IN
Crossed at the junction of the rivers. Crotch deep and fast flowing made this a bit precarious. Especially the hidden logs that seemed to reach up and catch a foot every time you moved forward.

Next up, a river bank at a 45 degree angle with no trail... And muddy. Numerous roots weren't attached, and using them to get up the hill on the approach led to more fun.

The climb itself was pretty rad. There was a black snake 2/3 rds of the way up the second pitch. The leader was like, "Crap there's a snake up here!"... I imagine the snake was like, "Crap, there's a human up here!".

Topping out was great - excellent views. The best part though was the adventure getting there - that's a hard thing to forget. Aug 14, 2017