Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mt. Thorodin

CMC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chinook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Love of Mothernot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Misty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paddling About T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Paddling About Variant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Papal Bull T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Piecemeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pope on Dope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tenzing's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thorodin Ridge Scramble T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thorodin's Hammer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Variation to For Love of Mothernot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Zephyr, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,114 total, 45/month
Shared By: Kirk Ranney on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Begin at the base of the First Buttress on a short ramp down and left of the obvious tree on the face. The ramp gains a discontinuous crack system that works up and right. You will see the obvious tree on your right and a large roof on your left. Your goal is somewhere in between those features. The crux comes about 2/3 of the way up the first pitch. A thin hand crack that is somewhat difficult to protect gives way to an exposed exit onto a vertical face with bomber hands and feet (5.6). From here, you can spot the grassy ledge that is your belay. Small cams and crafty nut work provide a solid anchor. Take a minute to check out the views of the divide. 195 feet.

Pitch 2&3: The Hubbel guidebook breaks this route up into 3 pitches, but we did it in one long pitch and combined the last two into a single 100 foot pitch. From the first belay, continue straight up a series of small cracks to the 2nd pitch crux. Climb a short, vertical dihedral (5.5) and a ledge with a small tree. It is possible to belay here to facilitate better communication (50 feet). From the ledge, you can escape left over low fifth class terrain or go right and keep the climbing at about 5.4/5.5. Find a belay along the summit ridge, again taking in the excellent views of the divide.

We got off route and went left which dead ended on crumbly lichen encrusted rock with few protection options. I ended up down climbing 150 feet in order to get back on route. When in doubt, trend right and look for the path of least resistance. I am not sure if I ever gained the correct route as the first pitch felt a good bit harder than 5.5, maybe 5.6/5.7. Still, a fun route in an alpine setting with an approach that keeps the crowds away.

Location

The First Buttress is easily seen from the base of the talus field. Pick the easiest way up and right to gain the base of the wall. Look for a tree 1/3 of the way up the face and start at a ramp 30 feet left of the tree.

The descent is a somewhat exposed scramble west along the summit ridge. Once you get to the big block, follow the easiest path that drops beneath the summit ridge and past two trees before reaching terra firma. Head west towards the first second buttress and descend via a gully that deposits you at the base of a large slab. (There is a 2 pitch 5.6 on this slab that looks fun.) From here, work east towards the base of the climb or descend to the trail following the easily spotted cairns.

Protection

Standard rack. I needed nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot and small nuts were helpful for belays.
Tommy Copeland
Parker, Co
  5.5
Tommy Copeland   Parker, Co
  5.5
The first pitch was fun with the crux coming 2/3 of the way up with a thin Fibger Crack that is hard to protect (5.7) and mostly smearing for foot holds. This goes for 2 sections and then leads out to an easy dihedral to a great, grassy belay ledge.

The second pitch was very easy but posed bad rope drag. I think this is way it is proposed in 3 pitches, but 2 pitches were easy to do and less time consuming. Left a BD #1 Cam in a crack near the top. If you are feeling nice and want to return it, PM me! Oct 18, 2017
Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
Joe Brannan   Lyons, CO
If you follow the thin finger crack, it's not 5.5 or 5.6 but more like 5.7 (different route?). Great climbing on that first pitch to a sweet belay ledge with killer views. Second pitch is 5.5, head through the wall at the top for some vertical jugging. Walk off behind by following the ridge briefly north. May 24, 2010