Avg: 2 from 11 votes
Routes in Mt. Thorodin
|CMC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Chinook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|For Love of Mothernot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Mr. Misty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Northwest Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Outland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Paddling About T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Paddling About Variant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Papal Bull T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Piecemeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pope on Dope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Tenzing's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Thorodin Ridge Scramble T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Thorodin's Hammer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Variation to For Love of Mothernot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Zephyr, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,114 total, 45/month|
|Shared By:||Kirk Ranney on Aug 29, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
State Park; Fee Required. Details
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.
DescriptionPitch 1: Begin at the base of the First Buttress on a short ramp down and left of the obvious tree on the face. The ramp gains a discontinuous crack system that works up and right. You will see the obvious tree on your right and a large roof on your left. Your goal is somewhere in between those features. The crux comes about 2/3 of the way up the first pitch. A thin hand crack that is somewhat difficult to protect gives way to an exposed exit onto a vertical face with bomber hands and feet (5.6). From here, you can spot the grassy ledge that is your belay. Small cams and crafty nut work provide a solid anchor. Take a minute to check out the views of the divide. 195 feet.
Pitch 2&3: The Hubbel guidebook breaks this route up into 3 pitches, but we did it in one long pitch and combined the last two into a single 100 foot pitch. From the first belay, continue straight up a series of small cracks to the 2nd pitch crux. Climb a short, vertical dihedral (5.5) and a ledge with a small tree. It is possible to belay here to facilitate better communication (50 feet). From the ledge, you can escape left over low fifth class terrain or go right and keep the climbing at about 5.4/5.5. Find a belay along the summit ridge, again taking in the excellent views of the divide.
We got off route and went left which dead ended on crumbly lichen encrusted rock with few protection options. I ended up down climbing 150 feet in order to get back on route. When in doubt, trend right and look for the path of least resistance. I am not sure if I ever gained the correct route as the first pitch felt a good bit harder than 5.5, maybe 5.6/5.7. Still, a fun route in an alpine setting with an approach that keeps the crowds away.
LocationThe First Buttress is easily seen from the base of the talus field. Pick the easiest way up and right to gain the base of the wall. Look for a tree 1/3 of the way up the face and start at a ramp 30 feet left of the tree.
The descent is a somewhat exposed scramble west along the summit ridge. Once you get to the big block, follow the easiest path that drops beneath the summit ridge and past two trees before reaching terra firma. Head west towards the first second buttress and descend via a gully that deposits you at the base of a large slab. (There is a 2 pitch 5.6 on this slab that looks fun.) From here, work east towards the base of the climb or descend to the trail following the easily spotted cairns.