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Washington
> Central-W Casca…
> N Bend & Vicinity
> Exit 38
> Far Side
> Neverland
> (d) Lost Boys
I Wanna Go Home
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 87 votes
Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Garth Bruce, Drew Fletcher & Dave Perkins (2005) |
Page Views: | 6,252 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | ScottH on Aug 28, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
I Wanna Go Home is a 2 pitch line on the far left side of Lost Boys. The first pitch is typical "juggy" exit 38 climbing, while the second is quite slabby.
P1. Begin up a small face, climbing over a small lip about 15 feet up. This felt like the crux to me; non-descript climbing continues to the anchor.
P2. The second pitch starts up a steep, blank face before pulling around a roof and the corner above. This felt more exposed than I expected from the ground; make use of the arete and think things through-- a short but unprotected fall on the anchor/ledge is a possibility. After turning the corner, make a step over a small lip and onto a slab, using the arete as you ascend. Near the top, fight the urge to stay with the arete when the bolt line pulls you right.
This is a 35m line, and both pitches can easily led as one with no drag.
P1. Begin up a small face, climbing over a small lip about 15 feet up. This felt like the crux to me; non-descript climbing continues to the anchor.
P2. The second pitch starts up a steep, blank face before pulling around a roof and the corner above. This felt more exposed than I expected from the ground; make use of the arete and think things through-- a short but unprotected fall on the anchor/ledge is a possibility. After turning the corner, make a step over a small lip and onto a slab, using the arete as you ascend. Near the top, fight the urge to stay with the arete when the bolt line pulls you right.
This is a 35m line, and both pitches can easily led as one with no drag.
9 Comments