Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches
FA: Garth Bruce, Drew Fletcher & Dave Perkins (2005)
Page Views: 5,321 total · 29/month
Shared By: ScottH on Aug 28, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

I Wanna Go Home is a 2 pitch line on the far left side of Lost Boys. The first pitch is typical "juggy" exit 38 climbing, while the second is quite slabby.

P1. Begin up a small face, climbing over a small lip about 15 feet up. This felt like the crux to me; non-descript climbing continues to the anchor.

P2. The second pitch starts up a steep, blank face before pulling around a roof and the corner above. This felt more exposed than I expected from the ground; make use of the arete and think things through-- a short but unprotected fall on the anchor/ledge is a possibility. After turning the corner, make a step over a small lip and onto a slab, using the arete as you ascend. Near the top, fight the urge to stay with the arete when the bolt line pulls you right.

This is a 35m line, and both pitches can easily led as one with no drag.

Location

The left bolt line on Lost Boys, following slab overlaps to the right of the mossy section.

Protection

7 bolts P1, 4 bolts P2. Both anchors have chains. A single rap with a 70m leaves ~15 feet on the ground; careful orientation may allow you to make one rap with a 60m.

Photos