Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,987 total · 25/month
Shared By: ScottH on Aug 28, 2006 with improvements by Chase G
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

I Wanna Go Home is a 2 pitch line on the far left side of Lost Boys. The first pitch is typical "juggy" exit 38 climbing, while the second is quite slabby.

P1. Begin up a small face, climbing over a small lip about 15 feet up. This felt like the crux to me; non-descript climbing continues to the anchor.

P2. The second pitch starts up a steep, blank face before pulling around a roof and the corner above. This felt more exposed than I expected from the ground; make use of the arete and think things through-- a short but unprotected fall on the anchor/ledge is a possibility. After turning the corner, make a step over a small lip and onto a slab, using the arete as you ascend. Near the top, fight the urge to stay with the arete when the bolt line pulls you right.

This is a 35m line, and both pitches can easily led as one with no drag.

Location

With a single rope, rap the route.

Protection

~12 draws will get you to the 2nd pitch anchor

Photos