Avg: 3.7 from 43 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||3,299 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Aug 28, 2006|
|Admins:||grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle|
DescriptionA continuous, near-vertical, thin crack climb with thoughtful pro. I didn't think this was any better than Silent Partner, but the guidebook and my partner did, so bowing to peer pressure, I'll give it 4 stars.
Start at an obvious thin, straight up crack about 5M right of King of the Hangdogs, the obvious left facing corner.
The first 15', thin laybacking etc. on thin, left facing flakes, is the crux; decent pro is available for this section but it is tough to place. If you have a crashpad or springy legs, you might be better off bouldering this section as the landing is smooth. After you latch the key undercling, marking the end of the crux, there is a straightforward .4 Camalot (gray) placement. After this, pull up and over a bulge (good pro but strenuous to place) to a good rest. At the rest, place a nest of RP size nuts and wriggle past another tricky spot. The climb continues in this fashion, decent but not completely obvious pro with matching moves until another crux is encountered around 2/3 height. After this the climbing relents somewhat as does the gear. Note: my 2000 vintage guide gives both cruxes 10+; my partner and I both found the first considerably harder. The pitch ends at rap anchors.