Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,513 total · 23/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 28, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

48 Opinions

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A continuous, near-vertical, thin crack climb with thoughtful pro. I didn't think this was any better than Silent Partner, but the guidebook and my partner did, so bowing to peer pressure, I'll give it 4 stars.

Start at an obvious thin, straight up crack about 5M right of King of the Hangdogs, the obvious left facing corner.

The first 15', thin laybacking etc. on thin, left facing flakes, is the crux; decent pro is available for this section but it is tough to place. If you have a crashpad or springy legs, you might be better off bouldering this section as the landing is smooth. After you latch the key undercling, marking the end of the crux, there is a straightforward .4 Camalot (gray) placement. After this, pull up and over a bulge (good pro but strenuous to place) to a good rest. At the rest, place a nest of RP size nuts and wriggle past another tricky spot. The climb continues in this fashion, decent but not completely obvious pro with matching moves until another crux is encountered around 2/3 height. After this the climbing relents somewhat as does the gear. Note: my 2000 vintage guide gives both cruxes 10+; my partner and I both found the first considerably harder. The pitch ends at rap anchors.


Doubles from RPs up to red Alien with a couple of bigger pieces but nothing larger than a #1 Camalot.


beware the bouldery start! Sep 16, 2008
There is now an extremely fixed offset nut around the "nest of RPs" spot. Very cool route. Maybe I was being irrational but I was fairly scared the whole time on lead. Continuously challenging with OK but not great gear (apparently with the exception of that nut placement...). I led this the same day as leading Crack of Doom and found this far more mentally taxing. Oct 1, 2009
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
The fixed nut is gone. This route sucks up the small gear. I placed 4 each .4 and .5 camalots, plus 2 .3's, 2 purple TCU's, 1 gray TCU, and 3 rp's(don't leave the ground without these!). Nothing bigger. The crack is somewhat flared that takes fidgeting to get the gear to sit right, making the climbing a bit more anxious. The start is pretty fun, as long as you don't break your ankle. Jul 13, 2010
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I agree that your mental game needs to be on for this one; the crux off the ground is pretty tough, even though the landing is great. Excellent crack, though. Jul 21, 2011
SamP Piper
Truckee, CA
SamP Piper   Truckee, CA
I placed several offset aliens and was psyched about it. Jul 27, 2011
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
Great route. Bring your A game for the start. And check out SIlent partner. Every bit as good Sep 26, 2012
Alec LaLonde
Alec LaLonde  
This is a superb route that doesn't seem to get done as much as the other classic CoR crack lines. Tough start but with adequate gear, then continuous, engaging 5.10 climbing to the top. Offset nuts and optional offset cams provide great gear the whole way up. Oct 20, 2014
bheller   SL UT
The start is the crux. Since the undercling left of the crack at 12 feet has broken twice now (still usable), and the little jelly bean smear pebble in the quartz dike at the start (left wall) has also snapped off, I'm gonna say its now a v3 boulder instead of the original V2. (Read between the lines- V3 =11c) Apr 20, 2015
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
Hard first couple moves, but if you can clammer on up to the first good stance, you should be in the clear. after boulder start its thin, but safe...takes great nuts and offset pieces. Really enjoyed this route, especially having afternoon shade. Jul 20, 2015
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
Something else! Not as straight forward as it looks from the ground. Climbs a lot more like a face climb than a finger crack. Sep 20, 2015
Cruxy start followed by sustained crack and face climbing to the top. Some good rests and great gear the entire way. Get on this thing!! Oct 1, 2017