Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 13,025 total · 74/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Aug 28, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

Lord of the Slings provides the easiest way to the top of Trilogy Buttress. After the ascent up the scree you are rewarded with increasingly awesome views of the canyon and valley. This is a must do route for any serious Rock Canyon climber.

Pitch 1: The original start begins on the south face of the base of the first buttress. There are 4 to 5 bolts scattered along this 180' of moderate (5.6) climbing. You might want to bring some protection if runouts bother you, but be prepared for massive rope drag if you do. Another option is to split this pitch into two by adding some gear to a blot found on a large ledge about halfway up. Bolt anchors protect the belay at the top. Move across the sandy ridge to the start of the next pitch.

Pitch 2: Belay from the base of the cliff where you can anchor into a bolt. Either go directly up the face to a small ledge, or move left on 4th class to gain the ledge. 80 feet of quality climbing past 7-8 bolts. Bolt anchors at the top. 5.9.

Pitch 3: Belay across the exposed ridge to the start of the next pitch. Look for the second set of bolts from the left. Go up 70 feet past ~6 bolts to double bolt anchors on a small ledge. 5.9+

Pitch 4: Continue up another 100 feet to the summit. ~10 bolts on 5.9+.

You can combine 3 & 4 if you use long runners on the first few bolts and have enough strength to swing through the overhanging sections.

Location

Walk 10 minutes from the parking lot watching the north side of the canyon. After the large buttress containing Bad Bananas and Super Bowl Wall you will see Trilogy appearing up the scree slope directly to the east. Trilogyis identifiable because of its three distinct faces.

Protection

Bolted with some optional gear on the first pitch. All pitches have bolted anchors. Bring lots of long runners.

Descent

Walk off west.

Photos