Lord of the Slings
Avg: 2.8 from 69 votes
Routes in Trilogy Buttress
|Along Came a Strider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Frodo Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Gollum's Column S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Lord of the Slings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|My Precious T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Nine in Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ranger Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Return of the King S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Shadow and Flame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Shards of Narsil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown name S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Wizardly Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Sport, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Jim and Christian Knight|
|Page Views:||9,343 total, 68/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Jensen on Aug 28, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionLord of the Slings provides the easiest way to the top of Trilogy Buttress. After the ascent up the scree you are rewarded with increasingly awesome views of the canyon and valley. This is a must do route for any serious Rock Canyon climber.
Pitch 1: The original start begins on the south face of the base of the first buttress. There are 4 to 5 bolts scattered along this 180' of moderate (5.6) climbing. You might want to bring some protection if runouts bother you, but be prepared for massive rope drag if you do. Another option is to split this pitch into two by adding some gear to a blot found on a large ledge about halfway up. Bolt anchors protect the belay at the top. Move across the sandy ridge to the start of the next pitch.
Pitch 2: Belay from the base of the cliff where you can anchor into a bolt. Either go directly up the face to a small ledge, or move left on 4th class to gain the ledge. 80 feet of quality climbing past 7-8 bolts. Bolt anchors at the top. 5.9.
Pitch 3: Belay across the exposed ridge to the start of the next pitch. Look for the second set of bolts from the left. Go up 70 feet past ~6 bolts to double bolt anchors on a small ledge. 5.9+
Pitch 4: Continue up another 100 feet to the summit. ~10 bolts on 5.9+.
You can combine 3 & 4 if you use long runners on the first few bolts and have enough strength to swing through the overhanging sections.