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Plea Bargain
5.10a,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 192
votes
FA: Stan Price
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Home Alone
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Follow the line of bolts between Character Witness and Freaks and Phonies. User-friendly pockets ascend a gently overhanging wall. An excellent warm-up for the other climbs at Home Alone.
Location
Plea Bargain is the third route left to right on the left wall of the U-shaped amphitheater.
Protection
6 bolts. Lower from fixed wire-gates clipped into a two bolt anchor.
[Hide Photo] Bri enjoying her 1st trip to the canyon
[Hide Photo] From Left --> Right Always Keep it Loaded 5.12a Character Witness 5.11a Plea Bargain 5.10a Freaks and Phonies 5.10b Soup Sandwich 5.9+
[Hide Photo] full shot of the west facing wall
[Hide Photo] Pat on Plea Bargain. Good view of (most) of the route. Character Witness tackles the rad flake to the left.
[Hide Photo] Climber on Plea Bargain.
[Hide Photo] Wendy Weiss on Plea Bargain in 2006. The layback edge and flake on Character Witness are on her left; the black streak of Freaks and Phonies is on her right.
[Hide Photo] Ian on "Plea Bargain". Me in the back on "Always Keep It Loaded"
Bozeman, MT
WY