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Vawter's Dihedral
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | John Vawter and Morgan Curtis, 1974 |
Page Views: | 2,963 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | mschlocker on Aug 26, 2006 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Flaring dihedral sitting on top of a ledge. A few ways to get to the ledge exist. Once there head straight up the dihedral. Mostly stemming. No real crux, just fun climbing all the way up.
Location
In the middle of the Limbo Area. Just off the trail, to the right of The Rift. An obvious wide dihedral that starts on a ledge.
Protection
There are safe ways to the ledge. I would say that the first placement that I would actually consider falling on after that comes maybe in the middle of the dihedral or higher. If you are determined to lead this the dihedral protects with marginal RPs and probably good small aliens. These are my observations from the safety of a TR anyway. There is a bolt anchor at the top of this climb, maybe 20 feet back from the top which can be walked to up and left of the climb. Only lead this if you don't mind soloing a little 5.10 because that's what you will be doing.
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