Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Vawter and Morgan Curtis, 1974
Page Views: 1,717 total · 11/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Aug 26, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Flaring dihedral sitting on top of a ledge. A few ways to get to the ledge exist. Once there head straight up the dihedral. Mostly stemming. No real crux, just fun climbing all the way up.

Location

In the middle of the Limbo Area. Just off the trail, to the right of The Rift. An obvious wide dihedral that starts on a ledge.

Protection

There are safe ways to the ledge. I would say that the first placement that I would actually consider falling on after that comes maybe in the middle of the dihedral or higher. If you are determined to lead this the dihedral protects with marginal RPs and probably good small aliens. These are my observations from the safety of a TR anyway. There is a bolt anchor at the top of this climb, maybe 20 feet back from the top which can be walked to up and left of the climb. Only lead this if you don't mind soloing a little 5.10 because that's what you will be doing.

Photos

This is a scary lead. I would probably call this X rather than R. The boulder problem to the ledge is no big deal, but the thin nuts in the corner below the crux wouldn't likely hold any kind of fall. Those are all the gear you get for the crux mantel move. After the crux, some small cams protect the last bit of climbing to the top. Falling on lead from anywhere before that would likely land you bouncing off the ledge and then to the ground. Just throw a top rope on this one. It's really not worth the danger of the lead. Aug 13, 2007
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
AND... it can be especially hairy right after rainfall, when the run-off dirt dries all over this face/crack making it extremely dirty. Both this and Double Trouble suffer greatly from dirt run-off. Having made the mistake of climbing both during such periods of time, it doesnt make the climb that much harder, just hairier. Feb 17, 2010
Preston Rhea
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10a R
Preston Rhea   Mammoth Lakes
  5.10a R
Exciting lead. There a a couple places in the dihedral you can nest some nuts and a small cam. I found offset nuts made the placements bomber though a bit on the small and sparse side. Jul 17, 2015