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Routes in Limbo Area

Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Craig's Chimney TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow Boulder S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deviate Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Digitalis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape From The Underworld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indecision TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Kathy's Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Revision TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Deviation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top of the Pops. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tower, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Chute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Volume I TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Vawter and Morgan Curtis, 1974
Page Views: 1,522 total, 11/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Aug 26, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Flaring dihedral sitting on top of a ledge. A few ways to get to the ledge exist. Once there head straight up the dihedral. Mostly stemming. No real crux, just fun climbing all the way up.

Location

In the middle of the Limbo Area. Just off the trail, to the right of The Rift. An obvious wide dihedral that starts on a ledge.

Protection

There are safe ways to the ledge. I would say that the first placement that I would actually consider falling on after that comes maybe in the middle of the dihedral or higher. If you are determined to lead this the dihedral protects with marginal RPs and probably good small aliens. These are my observations from the safety of a TR anyway. There is a bolt anchor at the top of this climb, maybe 20 feet back from the top which can be walked to up and left of the climb. Only lead this if you don't mind soloing a little 5.10 because that's what you will be doing.

Photos

Preston Rhea
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10a R
Preston Rhea   Mammoth Lakes
  5.10a R
Exciting lead. There a a couple places in the dihedral you can nest some nuts and a small cam. I found offset nuts made the placements bomber though a bit on the small and sparse side. Jul 17, 2015
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
AND... it can be especially hairy right after rainfall, when the run-off dirt dries all over this face/crack making it extremely dirty. Both this and Double Trouble suffer greatly from dirt run-off. Having made the mistake of climbing both during such periods of time, it doesnt make the climb that much harder, just hairier. Feb 17, 2010
This is a scary lead. I would probably call this X rather than R. The boulder problem to the ledge is no big deal, but the thin nuts in the corner below the crux wouldn't likely hold any kind of fall. Those are all the gear you get for the crux mantel move. After the crux, some small cams protect the last bit of climbing to the top. Falling on lead from anywhere before that would likely land you bouncing off the ledge and then to the ground. Just throw a top rope on this one. It's really not worth the danger of the lead. Aug 13, 2007