PRINT: Rock Climb Stick to your Guns, Southwest Utah

Stick to your Guns

5.12a, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 33 votes
FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Green Valley Gap

Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.

Description

This route starts under a 15' long roof. Use the crack around the left corner for your hands. At the third bolt drop down under the roof. The holds here have been cemented to keep them from breaking off. The crux is from here to the next bolt. follow the arete up to a 2 chain anchor.

Location

About 100 yard from west end of gap on south facing wall. This route in immediately right of Hair Today Gone Tomorrow. It is the most obvious roof with three bolts under the roof.

Protection

Five draws plus anchor
Fixed Bolts. 2 Chain anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jeremy Steck on Stick to Your Guns.

View from the start looking out the climb.

Some holds are reinforced with concrete

Robear on the first moves

Passing the crux

The crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab

This is not a project...The roof is very easy, and contrived....the crux is turning the lip. Dec 11, 2007

ZachBradford

5.12-

The route is named "Stick to your Guns"

FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Goss Guide Book gives it a 12c. Mar 18, 2009

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT

5.12b

This route is very fun, regardless of the grade or glued holds. It might be a good idea to anchor the belayer to prevent a possible ground fall if the climber was to fall when turning the lip or fumbling the clip above the lip. Mar 7, 2010

Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction

12a seems about right for this climb. I felt is was easier then sandstoner reverse though, so could be 11d. 12c is very generous. Super fun climb. Mar 7, 2011

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah

5.12a

Any beta on how to turn the lip? what are the holds like above the lip? Where should you clip from once you come around it? Mar 30, 2011

ZachBradford

5.12-

Beta at lip is the crux toss to a deep 2-3 finger pocket. Then proceed up the face on the best holds you can find. They are better to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly. Mar 31, 2011