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First Kiss
5.7,
Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.2 from 326
votes
FA: Ryan Lawson - 2002
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (t) Kiss of the Leper…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
The First Kiss is a creatively constructed, fully bolted multi-pitch route tucked off in the northern most reaches of the park. The route has five pitches but, by linking the first two pitches, it can be done in four (but not recommended). All anchor stations have two bolts. Be aware that due to the locations of the anchor stations communication can be challenging - especially if there is a breeze blowing and/or if you've linked the first two pitches - and rope drag can be a problem on much of the route.
The first pitch (5.7) follows a generous collection of bolts up in a fairly straight line past a single high step crux to a fairly comfortable, semi-hanging belay station.
Pitch two (5.6) continues up an interesting blocky face and on a short arete to an excellent wide belay balcony with a sweet view of the north face of Monkey Face and the Cascade mountains to the west.
Note: if you chose to link pitches one and two be sure to attempt to use standard length runners at appropriate bolts to minimize rope drag. However, if you link these pitches, no matter how skillfully you might long runner and/or skip bolts you will experience some rope drag.
Pitch three heads horizontally north slightly down for about 40 feet along a ramp and then turns modestly up left another 40 feet to a fun crux move (5.5) just before the belay station. Plan on substantial rope drag on this nearly horizontal and rounded traverse pitch.
Pitch four (5.5) traverses up and left into and then up and out of a mossy bowl via a short and fun blocky arete. A short traverse left after the arete leads to a belay station atop a small bolder at the base of an orange-colored, pothole filled wall.
Pitch five (5.7) heads straight up the wall passing a short left-facing book and then continuing up another fun wall to the finishing anchors. There are two sets of anchor bolts at the top of the climb - the upper set are recommended.
Descent:
It is recommended that you do not attempt to rappel this wandering route. Instead, walk off (you did remember to bring your approach shoes with you, didn't you?) by a short scramble above the final anchors to the top of the formation and then carefully down-climbing from the exposed top to a notch. Follow the faint climbers trail that leads to the hikers trail coming down from the mesa. The other option is to pack all of your gear and climb the route "alpine style". Then hike / scramble up to the trail system on the top of the mesa.
Location
Once you reach the base of the Kiss of the Lepers Buttress via the hiking trail from the base of Monkey Face continue for about 50 feet and exit the hiking trail onto a short climbers trail to the obvious left-facing dihedral. Look for bolts ascending the west-facing wall.
Protection
Quickdraws plus a number of standard length runners. To link the first two pitches (not recommended) have at least 15 draws/runners if you plan to clip every bolt.
![View of the walk off from above. Down arrow marks P5 anchors. "X" are a couple cairns. You'll need to scramble up a bit. Beware of a few loose large blocks.]()
[Hide Photo] View of the walk off from above. Down arrow marks P5 anchors. "X" are a couple cairns. You'll need to scramble up a bit. Beware of a few loose large blocks.
![The last bit of scrambling to the trail. After following the cairns to a small outcrop/ledge thing, lean out a little and you'll see this just around the corner and below.]()
[Hide Photo] The last bit of scrambling to the trail. After following the cairns to a small outcrop/ledge thing, lean out a little and you'll see this just around the corner and below.
![Walk off. After the cairns. If you lean out a little you'll clearly see the escape hole]()
[Hide Photo] Walk off. After the cairns. If you lean out a little you'll clearly see the escape hole
![Approximate route showing 5 pitches. Look in Smith guide book for better details.]()
[Hide Photo] Approximate route showing 5 pitches. Look in Smith guide book for better details.
![Great first route to climb at Smith Rock!]()
[Hide Photo] Great first route to climb at Smith Rock!
![Base of the climb. Start in the corner and up the left face.]()
[Hide Photo] Base of the climb. Start in the corner and up the left face.
![Third pitch traverses horizontally north from a huge belay ledge. (The north face of Monkey Face is in the background.)]()
[Hide Photo] Third pitch traverses horizontally north from a huge belay ledge. (The north face of Monkey Face is in the background.)
![Janelle on the belay ledge at the start of the 3rd pitch with Monkey Face in the background.]()
[Hide Photo] Janelle on the belay ledge at the start of the 3rd pitch with Monkey Face in the background.
![JohnK following the third pitch]()
[Hide Photo] JohnK following the third pitch
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Fort Collins, CO
In my opinion, the descent is just as fun as the climb, making this one of my favorite easier routes. Aug 24, 2007
Prospect, CT
The exit off the top of pitch 2 is more ugly and should be avoided. May 3, 2010
This is a fantastic route on which to learn multi-pitch belay setups and transfers. The climbing is pretty fun, the views pretty stellar, without a whole lot of exposure. Pitch 1 is pretty straightforward stemming, knob pulling, and ramping. Pitch 2 is pretty sweet, meanders a little, and is much like the first. Pitch 3 can be a pain in the ass, as it only "climbs" maybe 20 feet, and traverses about 70. Practice your rope signals, because if there is any wind, you won't be able to hear each other at all. Pitch 4 is pretty short, with scary fall potential early on, but the climbing is easy. Pitch 5... this is what you came for. It's the longest, the most technical, and the most exposed. Top out, enjoy the view, then switch into your approach shoes, because the walk off is a little precarious.
As the name suggests, this is a great "date" route as well. ;-) Dec 20, 2010
Boulder update: Still a massive boulder looming just above rappel anchors of 5th pitch (the widescreen tv size comparison from earlier post is appropriate). March 14, 2015. Mar 18, 2015
Thanks for all the work of putting up a fun route.
Bolts are in good condition at all the anchors, but a few protection bolts are a bit loose. We tried to tighten a few, but some may be beyond the point of return. This route would be good for glueins, especially Pitch 2 on that softer rock. Failing that, perhaps bigger mechanical bolts would buy some time (some current bolts looked to be 3/8").
Walk off at top was easy. head left mostly and down a little, then quick ten foot scramble over the ridge towards monkey face and the Misery Ridge trail. With this option it can be climbed with one 60 meter rope easily and no raps.
bring about 4-6 slings for the traverse especially, but handy on other pitches too.
Last set of anchors has a serious death block perched next to it. easily avoided though. Aug 10, 2015
Bend, OR
Portland, OR
camas,wa
Also, keep an eye on the bird closure for this wall.
Chad Feb 16, 2016
Kent, WA
We used two 60cm slings while linking P1&2, drag wasn't terrible.
At the end of the last pitch you come to a ledge and jog left. There is a bolt here and then also one on the left side of the ledge before you climb up to the anchor. Even on 60cm alpine draws you're going to create a lot of rope drag if you clip both of them. Consider using a 120 on the first bolt if you need a directional for your follower, or don't clip that one if they're solid at the grade. Sep 9, 2016
Rhododendron, OR
I'm not sure if it's as a result of a handful of routes coming together near the top, but it seemed like the route was either run out pretty solid at the end, or the intent is to use double-length slings whenever possible. Super fun though. FYI, use the anchors set back from the top of P5 rather than the rap anchors on the ledge at the top of P5. Save your back and an awkward top down belay.
I recommend a night ascent of it if you're already familiar with the descent trail.
5.7+ (day)
5.8- (night) Sep 26, 2016
Eugene, OR
Las Vegas
Eugene, OR
Redmond, OR
Portland, OR
Salt Lake City, UT
Portland, OR
Descent: We found a path up to the summit with a big cairn made of 30 rocks, then continued northeast down the talus back onto the misery ridge trail. There was some scrambling and downclimbing some V0- boulder moves but no rappelling involved. Just another option on top of the rappels that are mentioned above. Aug 4, 2020
Seattle, WA
Longest pitch (P3) is ~40m long Oct 5, 2020
San Jose, CA
Pitch 3 - last bolt is missing on the traverse, but you are very close to the anchors and it is reasonably safe.
Descent - the 3 photos from Jonathan that show the walk off is awesome. Keep looking for the escape hole and you will find it. It lets you go to the south side and then leads to a nice climbers trail that connects to the Misery ridge trail. Nov 25, 2020
Las Vegas, NV (2 yrs) and…
There are a few comments where some people found this climb exposed. Not to discount how it felt to them but if you have much multi pitch outdoor climbing experience at all this probably wont feel particularly exposed. Most of the holds and stances are very secure feeling. (it is a little chossy for about 12 feet three quarters of the way up pitch two) I think the 3rd pitch traverse of nearby Wherever I May Roam for example is much more exposed feeling for reference. It takes a 70 meter rope to rap off the last pitch and you cant go straight down from there to the top of the big water groove of "The Climb" without making the short rappel over to the top of pitch three of "The Climb". My guess is an 80 meter rope might be just enough but I haven't hauled one up there to test that idea out. From pitch three of The Climb to the top of water groove there is only about 15ft left on a 70 meter rope on rappel. The walk off is not bad at all but my wife has a bum ankle and rappelling into the big water groove is fun.
The top of pitch two and four are good places for lunch with plenty of room for other parties to pass if need be. Sep 2, 2021
Durham, NC
West Linn, OR
Portland, OR
vancouver