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Routes in Incinerator Wall

Burning Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crematorium S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fire Walker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Incinerator, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chuck Scott, 1992
Page Views: 8,585 total, 63/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 23, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A local classic that tackles the steep face/arete on the north side of the formation.

Mostly good holds the entire way with an obvious crux past the third bolt, where a long reach gains better holds above. A hold broke in the crux area several years back, but the grade remains intact, if not more solid than before.

Super fun and well-protected, this is a popular one to finish the day or oneself on.

Protection

4 bolts, sport anchors
Brian Chen  
 
Don't traverse in from the left on Crematorium for the first bolt, go up and direct for full value. No cheating! Oct 3, 2016
Coon  
I didnt see a need to TR it first. While the route is far from easy, the clipping holds are very generous and it's pretty overhung. Get some airtime!

Crux felt like it was a small traverse from the arete to the 2 offset crimps on the main face that you go for the doorknob from. Im 6'1" and with real high feet was able to dead point to it. Jul 30, 2014
Phil Esra  
 
Oof, steep, powerful, reachy crux. Can easily get to the anchor from above to set a TR. A higher anchor 6' up protects the moves down to the lower anchor.

The TJ Esposito vid above has really helpful basic beta, but that climber must be damned tall. At 5'6" I have to come at it pretty differently overall. Sliding a toehook along in the roof crack lets me get set up better underneath the dyno jug. May 5, 2014
Nick Tunnicliffe
Costa Mesa
Nick Tunnicliffe   Costa Mesa
I felt the beta at the crux to be strange. Going left onto the holds on the face felt awkward. Going right appeared to be a cop out. Not sure if I used the correct beta, but either way it was a fun finish to that jug. Aug 16, 2013
John Dubya  
 
Cant really appreciate how steep this is until you stand under it. Climb the 5.9 way left and traverse right at the top to get to the anchors so you can hang the draws. Trust me youll want the draws hung on this one for the red point. Dyno crux! Aug 12, 2012
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
Assorted vids for those who want beta; two different approaches to the crux in these. Burly climb, you don't even realize how steep it is until you're standing underneath it about to start or belay.

Full ascent: Full ascent on Vimeo

Crux only: failure on Sickygnar and success on Sickygnar Jun 12, 2012
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.12a
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.12a
It sounds like you're going straight up from the third bolt instead of traversing the little roof left and throwing up to the holds on the other side of the arete. Perhaps it's a little contrived, but it's a 30 foot "route" that is basically a boulder problem with a bit of fluff at the start and end. Going straight up would pretty much bypass the bulk of the route. Dec 8, 2010
I recently stepped up to this route & I found the only way for me was slightly to the right of the arete. I don't actually hold any of the chalked up holds on the arete or the two horizontals left and high on the arete. I never get more than an arm span to the right of the bolt line. Also, the way I do this route makes placing and clipping all the draws easy. I am probably doing an easier variation. Seems like 11c? Am I doing it wrong? How is everyone else doing it? What is the current beta?

Thanks in advance & sorry if this is in the wrong place.


Just looked at the video below. Is that the "Full rating beta?" or is this the easier way? No offense to anybody intended. This is the way I do the route except no dyno. Thanks. Sep 5, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Best route at Holcomb? Certainly the best I've done. Athletic and bouldery on a gorgeous lichen tinged wall with somewhat sustained and difficult movement up to/through the crux. A welcome change from the slabby edge surfing more typical of the area. Not overly tricky, this makes a good onsight candidate (I failed and had to go back another day for the send). Aug 18, 2009
Steep! Mar 19, 2007