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Routes in Middle Muffin

Devil Baby Traverse V5 6C
Muff Diver S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muffin Monster TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Change V4 6B
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Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Bruce Morris 1992
Page Views: 743 total · 5/month
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details


This route TRs the crack on the west face of the Mid-Muffin that begins near the mantle finish on the Devil Baby Traverse boulder problem. There is a double bolt anchor on top of the Mid-Muffin that can be accessed by climbing an oak tree that leads up to the summit of the rock. The crux comes near the bottom where the crack ends in a difficult left-hand mantle with nothing for your feet.


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I thought this was more like V6...not too much taller than the boulder problem that ends 6 feet to the left....really fun for sure!

Officially...does it start at the jug below or the bottom of the crack (typical boulderer question, right?) Feb 28, 2009
Paul Robertson
Paul Robertson  
A few notes on this route/problem:
1) Access the anchor via large tree on west side of boulder (not sure what kind of tree it is but certainly not an "oak")
2) BETA ALERT! Starting in the large pocket to the lower left of the crack, make a single large move to get into the crack. Enjoy powerful liebacking on bad feet.
3) Bring a heavy duty brush to clean off the moss on the top-out. I made it to the slopey rail and the top of the crack and couldn't top out with so much growth. The top-out seems pretty difficult, maybe moreso than the crack.
Dec 4, 2016
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
Think the mantel move on the rail after the crack is the true crux of the problem if I recall correctly. The last few moves to the top, even with moss BITD, didn't seem very hard. It must be that the mantel shelf has over-grown with moss. Think the access tree quite definitely is a Black Oak, not a pine. Rap down a clean the mantel shelf before attempting? After quite a few comments, I've down-rated Muffin Monster to 5.12d. Don't think anyone who's done the problem would argue with that. There just wasn't a good reference at Castle for V6/V7 and 5.12d/5.13a back when the problem was first done. Dec 5, 2016

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