This is a super fun crack system with several cruxes and good rests. Its a great route for sport climbers who want to learn how to place gear. It traverses a little and protecting your second is almost more important than protecting yourself so sew it up.
You can obviously go low and make it a lot easier but it's a lot more fun to contrive yourself into staying high in the beginning upper crack. Mostly graded 9-ish because the crux of Hibachi Time is about that grade.
This was the day I met Tyler Phillips way back in the day. He and Luke had given us so many fun new lines and I thought there was no better way to say thank you than to do a new, low impact line with him. So lucky to have great friends like Tyler!!
Set of cams from tcu's up to hand sized with extra medium cam or two around orange tcu through .5 or .75 camalot and long runners. I also used two old style #4 camalots and would have liked a #5 for the last 10 feet. It isn't mandatory but would be nice. We used our #5 camalot (but a medium nut works) to hang a rope bag at the bottom belay to keep the rope out of the creek.
You could get away with a second #3 in place of one of the #4's. It would be really weird to actually climb this as though you were jamming a crack that size because you use the crack like a jug rail as you traverse up and left. Just think of it as an excuse to drag those big cams that you paid all that money for and haven't actually used in several years. I think a 60m rope would work but I used a 70.
Cottonwood Heights, UT
SLC, UT
SLC
I love that these faces have so many holds and choosing a trad line through them is both part of the fun and part of the adventure. You don't really know exactly what you'll run into but it can get airy for 5.9. Actually one of the best parts of these climbs is the fact that the movement is an awful lot like face climbing, making for good intro for sport climbers trying out their shiny new trad rack.
Finally, I'm just stoked someone is getting on this at all. The first time I climbed with Tyler Phillips, I thought it would be fun to say thanks for all his FA's by including him in on one in this area. It was cool hearing about all the stuff he was doing in other areas and fun to hang out and meet someone who was leading the way for the rest of us. Sep 5, 2017
SLC, UT
SLC, UT
No choss in sight. Get on this! Aug 14, 2019