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Routes in Sun-top Tower

Can't Can't T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
May Fly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moon Beam T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sucker, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun Top T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: DL Oldschool
Page Views: 63 total · 0/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Can't Can't is located on the left of Suntop Tower. You can start it up ledges or to the left around the corner is a semi awkward (but good) dihedral which adds climbing. Work up to the roof which turns into a dihedral where some burly left palming gets your feet up over the roof. The next part is an interesting slanted crack which leads to the top. This is a great route to get used to trusting little wires at a reasonable grade. May feel a bit physical...

Location

Left side of Suntop Tower, Prospect Pt. Towers, West Bluff.

Protection

Small-medium wires, small cams.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.11b R
Tradiban  
  5.11b R
Certainly R for the direct start, then good pro at the big horizontal but I didn't find anything until I was on the jugs higher and placed a small C3 at chest height. Maybe some micro brass in the seam? If so I didn't see it. Aug 27, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
R? It's been a while, but I don't recall an R factor. Awesome little pitch. Aug 27, 2011
Tradiban
  5.11b R
Tradiban  
  5.11b R
A tricky climb! We spent a few solid goes each before we unlocked the crux. Sven mentions a "chorus line kick" but we never saw that anywhere. A hint would be to make sure you're facing right while trying to get into the dihedral. Also the crux hold is a sloper that might require scrubbing and chalk to feel on grade.

A direct starts in the left dihedral but there's no pro. Small cams at the start of the crux and a #2 ball-nut or small brass a little higher. A fall placing the piece after the crux (micro cam in crack) would be scary with big ledges lurking below. Aug 26, 2011