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Routes in Gunsmoke Wall

After the Gold Rush TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bacon Taco S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Powder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cali Gold TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dirty Captain Freeman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drug of Choice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fever Pitch S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Filet of Sole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Crimping Good S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunsmoke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Branch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Narcotic Prayer TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powderhorn S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rawhide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' the Rock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smoking Gun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Testosterone Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Decker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Hammerle and Stuart Lochner, 1990
Page Views: 794 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the obvious left-facing corner system just right of Drug of Choice utilizing the plentiful face holds and then continue past one bolt on the face above to anchors on a large ledge.

Protection

Gear to 4", bolt, chain anchors

Photos

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Jeff Edge
  5.9
Jeff Edge  
  5.9
I counted one hand jam at the bottom, and maybe two foot jams. Other than that its a sorta strange face climb in a corner, still a little loose but worth doing once. Nov 17, 2014
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
  5.9
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
  5.9
Flake still feels like it just waiting for an overzealous climbing to rip it off the top. Not sure about 'plentiful' face holds, definitely had my shoulder and foot in the crack and squirmed my way up with limited foot placements worth getting excited about out of the crack. Flake give your body a break, but you definitely hustle off of it. Aug 6, 2012
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
 
Agreed. I warned my belayer about the flake near the top. Aug 15, 2010
this thing is loose Aug 27, 2007