Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Loren Scott, June 1997, Extension: Chris Miller, July 2001
Page Views: 960 total · 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The climb originally ended at the ledge (5.11a), but the extension continues up and left by clipping the anchor (use a long sling) and then punches out the bulge above on horrible crimps to anchors at the top of the formation.

Long and technical in nature, this packs a lot of crimping into it's length despite being broken up by the ledge midway. The extension is still cleaning up some, so don't be surprised if some small holds break off.

Location

Starts just left of Drug Of Choice at ground level and climbs the thin, gently overhanging face on small but positive holds to a large ledge system and then continues up and left to the top of the rock.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Coon  
I enjoyed this route but wish I woulda done it day 1 (when my skin was still fresh) and not day 3.. Easy to preclip first bolt which protects the initial moves off the ground (crux). Holds get bigger as you move up. Third clip is on a jug.

Skipped the upper part because it looked crappy. Next guy broke a golf ball sized hold on that part, third guy broke a softball sized one. Great climb even if its just for the first steep section. Aug 4, 2014
Also only did the first part, thought it was probably harder than 11a though it was the end of the day for me also (route #15). Nov 17, 2014