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Routes in Gunsmoke Wall

After the Gold Rush TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bacon Taco S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Powder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cali Gold TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dirty Captain Freeman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drug of Choice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fever Pitch S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Filet of Sole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Crimping Good S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunsmoke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Branch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Narcotic Prayer TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powderhorn S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rawhide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' the Rock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smoking Gun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Testosterone Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Decker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: (TR) Jim Hammerle, 1991, FL: Craig Pearson & Dean Goolsby, 1994
Page Views: 1,502 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located on the west face, just to the left of a large left-facing corner system with the route Gunsmoke.

This is the right of two thin face routes and climbs a short, thin crack to a slightly overhanging, thin and crimpy face. Not especially long, but the angle combined with the nature of the holds make for a challenging combination.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.12a/b
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
  5.12a/b
Don't be fooled by the un-inspiring appearance of this pint-sized line, you'll gladly let it steal your time and skin once you give it a go. The remarkably sustained technical sequence between the first and third bolts repels many an onsight, leaving climbers thrashed and confused until burn after burn the deviant holds finally reveal themselves. As a side note, I'd gladly give this route another star if it weren't for the "improvement" of a couple holds.

This is not your 5.12 gym route, its a puzzle that's worth solving. Jul 26, 2015
Joi-Bobby Laos  
5.12-
hardest .12a in the area. dope/technical moves to what i now know is a pinch for the left hand. missed a small window for the send, so i'm def going back for another shot. .12a- because of beta, beta, beta... Sep 17, 2012