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Twin Cracks Right

5.8, Trad, Sport, 90 ft,  Avg: 1.6 from 19 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Watermark
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Twin Cracks Right (and Twin Cracks Left) begins with the first half of Twin Peaks and goes right into a separate crack system at the undercling (where the other goes left). The crux is somewhere along the crack (you decide). The crack itself is solid rock, mostly fingers. Recommend: skip the bolt just beneath the undercling and place pro out right (where you are going anyway). A steep finger crack then leads to a low-angle, V-shaped dihedral. Step right and lower off from the anchors for Glennevere.

Location

This route begins with Twin Peaks and branches right at the undercling.

Protection

QDs for 3 bolts plus gear up to 3 inches. Lower off from the 2-bolt anchor for Glennevere.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermark, showing bolt locations.
[Hide Photo] Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermark, showing bolt locations.
Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
[Hide Photo] Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
This photo shows a short section of the Low Trail and the belay platform for Glennevere and Twin Peaks.
[Hide Photo] This photo shows a short section of the Low Trail and the belay platform for Glennevere and Twin Peaks.
Loose rock section...be careful.
[Hide Photo] Loose rock section...be careful.
Joan Johns cleaning in the rain, Twin Cracks Right, Watermark.
[Hide Photo] Joan Johns cleaning in the rain, Twin Cracks Right, Watermark.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] A short but fun crack. I clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before stepping right. Be sure to place directional pro at the top of the crack for your second before moving right to the anchor on Glennevere. It's best for the leader to lower off and have the second follow and clean the pitch, since it would be hard to clean while lowering or rappeling due to the slanting nature of the climb. Oct 2, 2006
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The entire climb can be safely lead without the bolts. The bottom section is easily protected with a large cam for the starting flake (3 or 4) and a yellow and blue Metolius. The crux is well-protected, even if the moves are a bit awkward. May 31, 2008