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South Face Left

5.10b, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 124 votes
FA: unknown
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Point Dume
Warning Access Issue: IMPORTANT!!Please stay on main trail when setting top ropes, do not use side gullies. DetailsDrop down

Description

Another area classic! Steep, exposed climbing above the water.

There are actually 2 (or more) variations. The plumb line climbs pockets up a steep face to the right-hand side of a small roof that caps the route (5.10c). Another variation steps left at a large ledge mid-height and climbs a shallow corner before traversing back right beneath the summit cap (5.10a/b).

Location

Around to the right of the Main Face, overlooking the ocean.

Protection

Bolted top anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ropes on both south face anchors. I started on the rock to the right of the belayer in the photo - 5.8ish tops this way.
[Hide Photo] Ropes on both south face anchors. I started on the rock to the right of the belayer in the photo - 5.8ish tops this way.
Sara climbs a route on the seaside on a beautiful day.
[Hide Photo] Sara climbs a route on the seaside on a beautiful day.
Mallory Mattox nears the top of a Point Dume classic.
[Hide Photo] Mallory Mattox nears the top of a Point Dume classic.
Tyler Spillman pulling the roof on a balmy January day!
[Hide Photo] Tyler Spillman pulling the roof on a balmy January day!
Sara climbing the seaside face.
[Hide Photo] Sara climbing the seaside face.
Tom heading up the South Face Left
[Hide Photo] Tom heading up the South Face Left
look how much fun I'm having
[Hide Photo] look how much fun I'm having
South Face - Left. Rocky and busy bottom at belay
[Hide Photo] South Face - Left. Rocky and busy bottom at belay
There's an incredible view of the sunset.
[Hide Photo] There's an incredible view of the sunset.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
[Hide Comment] The 10's on the side are way more fun than the face climbs. Watch out for loose rocks and tourists who wander right underneath you. Oct 5, 2009
Parker Alec Cross
Provo, UT
[Hide Comment] Lots of shenanigans while we were there this past week, the kind of stupid stuff we rarely see at the crags at home.

Protection is three bolted hangers for the more center version, and two bolts with hangers for the left-most route (5.10b), not listed on Mountain Project. The bolts all look kind of dodgy, and I wouldn't trust my life to them without slinging a rock with some webbing and long runner for a third/fourth piece of protection. Jun 17, 2011
Luis Orozco
Covina, CA
 
[Hide Comment] best route on the rock use the middle anchor and go under the roof Jan 17, 2012
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Bolts have been chopped. An attached boulder is at the top of this route. Bring extra cordage/webbing. Dec 21, 2014
[Hide Comment] I brought 2 30' webbing to wrap around the boulder and there is a bolt with a long reach as well. then I equalized those two points. Some people showed up with no webbing or Static rope and had to walk away or do the easy wall which was full. Apr 15, 2015
Im Sorry
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Fresh bolts. Really fun start below first roof, then connecting back with route. Apr 5, 2017
Conrad Parker
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Super fun route to climb and it's hard to beat the view. The bolted anchors were bomber and I will definitely be going back. My partner and I went in the morning on a weekday and we were the only people in the wall. Sep 13, 2017
Cesar Cardenas
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Great climbing at the start, from the first mini-roof. It gives you a chance to do some sweet fluid movements off the ground. The climbing gets easier up until the final sequence of moves to summit wall. Chances are your anchor is extended below the lip so you'll have to climb above the anchor to try these moves, not a big deal though and definitely worth it. Apr 1, 2018
Sarah Reinstein
Los Angeles
[Hide Comment] Super fun and chill, more fun than the face climbing and you get a killer view of the ocean. Went in April and ended up seeing whales and dolphins. Jul 28, 2022
Alec Sullivan
Santa Monica
 
[Hide Comment] Can be climbed as a 5.8 if you start the right of the pockets. Holds are great but lots of sand and gravel on the lower sections.

Enjoy the views and people watching at the top. Jun 5, 2023
Milton Rodriguez
Mission Hills
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Glue in anchors at the top of the climb and I found a 22ish ft cordelette Quad anchor to be sufficient.

BETA: When lowering a climber, please be mindful once nearing the lower overhang. It is very easy for the climber to swing out left and really wear out the rope on the rock’s ridges. Try to lower slowly near the bottom so that the climber can keep control on the direction to land. Jun 14, 2023
Joseph Schmitz
Arvada, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fantastic route! Skip the jug ladder to the right and rock up the flake underneath the roof. Don't rob yourself of a fantastic roof for a comfortable jug bash. The top is absolutely polished and now requires a solid V2 boulder move to top out on. If standing on top of the route is where you consider the end the last moves kick this up towards 5.10d. Jan 10, 2024
Connor Novak
No longer SF
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Good amount of bird poop in the line as of today, but don't let it dissuade you! It's in the easiest part of the route, so just meander around it and enjoy the overhung lower section and the techie finish. Sep 22, 2024