[Hide Comment] Appears to be a pick your own adventure climb. A few variations to the start, all go up the face on marginal holds to the first bolt. From here you can either traverse left to the arete with some technical moves or continue up and right on pockets and then traverse to the arete on jugs at the second bolt. Both variations were similar difficulty. Once on the arete, easily romp to the chains. Sep 21, 2014

[Hide Comment] Rebolted by SICC 10/26/2019. Consider donating to your LCO: climbsicc.com/donate Oct 26, 2019

[Hide Comment] Not to be a purist or anything, but I think it's pretty evident the first ascentionists were trying to take us on a journey up the beautiful arete. The bolts are perfectly placed for right hand clipping off left hand jugs on the arete. The perfect right facing jug and long toe rail between the first and second bolt facilitate a logical, albeit committing, sequence to the arete, and falls from the arete itself would be safe and airy. The chalk line right of the bolts would be illogical for leading and risk a decent sweeper in the advent of a bobble.

The only bummer about this route is how featured the left side of the arete becomes higher up. Just above bolt two I reckon one could swing onto the left side of the arete and walk up huecos to the chains at 5.6. I think the route is most rewarding, and probably only true to the grade, if you keep your feet and core body right of the arete the whole way. Of course, this also makes the route much safer, as a fall from the left side of the arete would be reckless at best, rope slicing at worst.

Move left early, layback the whole way and enjoy the full experience of an excellent, committing, safe and airy climb in a remarkable position. One of our favorites. Feb 12, 2024