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5.11d, Sport, 90 ft,
Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
FA: Dave Bingham & Pokey Amory
Idaho > S Idaho > Twin Falls & th… > Dierkes Lake > Alcove
Steep with many difficult sections. Less than obvious line that requires climbing out of the bolt line at times.First sport route at Dierkes.
8 bolts to chains
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Zach approaching the chains on Magma
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Salt Lake City, UT
This is a great route! In the Right side of the Alcove. Easily identifiable as the only route with chains on the actual canyon rim. There is one new set of chains and one old set, side-by-side. There is also a piton driven into a crack between the first and second bolt. Three cruxy roofs await you on this adventure. Lieback out the first one and savor the route's best rest as you sit on top of it. The next roof is v-roof that you cut feet and blast straight through. The technical crux is on the next face. Difficult crimps, stems, gastons, and pockets will get you to the underside of roof three. I found this section pretty uninspiring and too wander-ey, otherwise I would definitely give this route 4 stars. From the underside of the 3rd roof, step around the edge and a few more large moves between big holds will get you to the chains. After the first roof, the route is sustained with few places to rest. The pump is the real crux and it continues to build until you clip the chains. I think it is a solid 12a. Enjoy!
Mar 1, 2015
I really wanted this route to be 12a but I felt that excellent rests were to be found after each hard section. Good fun. I rate it to be 11d/12a.
Jun 16, 2016
New half-inch hardware from ASCA installed spring 2017.I replaced the old pin at the bottom with a bolt.We originally rated this .11d/.12a
Apr 13, 2017