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Routes in The Alcove

Beavis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bedazzled S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Elvis S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Black Thing S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bunny Bionic S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Burlygirl S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Burlymon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Butthead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Citation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diarreah Cha Cha Cha T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil C S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil D S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fifteen Minutes of Fame S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gag Reflex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glomathon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Gasp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loser S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Magma S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pink Slip S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Power Lunch S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sanitary Landfill S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
She-Devil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shotgun Wedding S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slacker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Snackpack S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soloflex S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Thighmaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm n' Fuzzy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where God Changed His Oil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ziplock S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dave Bingham & Pokey Amory
Page Views: 195 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael May on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Steep with many difficult sections. Less than obvious line that requires climbing out of the bolt line at times.First sport route at Dierkes.

Protection

8 bolts to chains

Photos

New half-inch hardware from ASCA installed spring 2017.I replaced the old pin at the bottom with a bolt.We originally rated this .11d/.12a Apr 13, 2017
Raddam6
Salt Lake
 
Raddam6   Salt Lake
 
I really wanted this route to be 12a, as I onsighted it. i have been close to onsighting a handful of 12a, but haven't managed. This one I felt may warrant the 12a rating based on the difficulty of the moves at the first roof, but I am in absolute disagreement with the first commenter as to the degree of sustain. I felt that excellent rests were to be found after each hard section. Good fun. I rate it to be 11d/12a. Jun 16, 2016
CHopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
CHopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
This is a great route! In the Right side of the Alcove. Easily identifiable as the only route with chains on the actual canyon rim. There is one new set of chains and one old set, side-by-side. There is also a piton driven into a crack between the first and second bolt. Three cruxy roofs await you on this adventure. Lieback out the first one and savor the route's best rest as you sit on top of it. The next roof is v-roof that you cut feet and blast straight through. The technical crux is on the next face. Difficult crimps, stems, gastons, and pockets will get you to the underside of roof three. I found this section pretty uninspiring and too wander-ey, otherwise I would definitely give this route 4 stars. From the underside of the 3rd roof, step around the edge and a few more large moves between big holds will get you to the chains. After the first roof, the route is sustained with few places to rest. The pump is the real crux and it continues to build until you clip the chains. I think it is a solid 12a. Enjoy! Mar 1, 2015