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Routes in North Wall

The Bush League S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Graspin' for Straw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pineapple Thunderpussy (aka Magic Carpet Ride) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Radical Sabbatical S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rafting with Rednecks (aka "Test") S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tears S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uckfay Ushbay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Will Wallace, Nate Adams
Page Views: 332 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bill Ballace on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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29 Opinions

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Description

The Bush League climbs like two routes in one. It starts with good holds on a vertical wall that disappear just before the fourth bolt. One or two hard moves leads to a large ledge. It is possible to camp here, so you might want to bring a chair and six pack to enjoy the scenery while you recover fully.

Set off up an overhanging face with jugs to the top.

Location

This is just left of the big cave at the north wall.

Protection

10 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Scott
  5.12a
Scott  
  5.12a
Cool route with a thoughtful boulder problem off the ledge. Would be excellent if the ledge didn't exist. Aug 3, 2017
Fred C.
Golden, CO
  5.12a/b
Fred C.   Golden, CO
  5.12a/b
Pulled off a hold between the 2nd and 3rd bolts; only makes it a hair more difficult, but nothing substantial considering the rest on the ledge. It seems as if there are a few more loose holds that are ready to be pulled. I guess I'll have to jump on the "contrived" bandwagon as well. I only add that in for climbers expecting to jump on it and try for the onsight. As Nate mentioned, this would be a very tough onsight, but in the end, climbing is climbing, and it's all fun. So no matter what the grade is, the route is worth climbing. Also, definitely make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet on this one. Aug 3, 2015
Adam Keifenheim
  5.12a
Adam Keifenheim  
  5.12a
Contrived, yes. Also discontinuous even if following the plumb line of bolts. The ledge can be camped upon. More like two separate boulder problems with 100% rest in between and then some pumpy 5.9 climbing to the anchors. Mar 26, 2015
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12a
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12a
I don't understand contrived lines. The holds I used were two feet to the left of the bolts (certainly not off route), and set me up with a left hand crimp in a runnel and a big throw to the shelf with your feet on the face. This is the efficient way to climb it, doing anything else is just climbing with bad beta. Forcing routes to be harder than they are is contrived and is more like bouldering. The beauty of route climbing is figuring out the easiest most efficient way to the top of the wall. The way I did this was definitely 12a, at least by Boulder Canyon standards. If you avoid the very obvious positive left hand runnel, I'm sure this route would be 12b. Overall, a super classic line regardless with good rock that has cleaned up nicely and a fun sequence that flows really well. Awesome. Aug 31, 2013
Normally, when a post begins with "I have never been on it, but...", I would dismiss it as the rantings of someone craving attention. But I'm bored, and craving attention, so here goes. Eric, by definition, all climbing routes are contrived. Every route ever done, sport, trad or otherwise, has been contrived by someone, even the boldest, hardest solos. Which makes the sport of climbing somewhat of a contrivance, albeit a damn fine way to waste precious time.

So, step away from the computer, climb down off the couch, visit Lime Creek and climb the many contrivances you will find there. Nobody will (hopefully) 'force' you to use this hold, or that hold, or stay strictly to a particular sequence - you're even welcome to step on bolts, pull on draws and train your belayer to tug on the rope at just the right "moment". Hell, I won't even be offended if you don't like any of my contrivances. Climb on! Oct 3, 2008
I have never been on it, but I know contrived when I am climbing something that is. If you find yourself asking yourself if the holds are on, then it is contrived or forced. Not the end of the world just not as good as a line that isn't. Sounds like a good route despite the bottom's ambiguity. Aug 26, 2008
Matt, Chris - glad to hear you enjoyed the route! That lower crux seems to be nearly on-sight proof. I got on it again this summer and had to work out the sequence all over again. From my vantage point, however, I would have to say that the "contrived variation" is busting out left. :)
I broke a footer myself - it sounds like the lower section could be getting harder. Aug 26, 2008
I'll agree that the contrived variation (staying in the direct plum-line of the 1st 4 bolts and not busting a left to jugs) is quite hard for 12a. 12b seems like the right rating for the lower sequence I worked out. The upper jug sequence is way easier. Some folks I was climbing with dared to say 11b/c without the direct start. Oh, we broke 2 holds and 2 feet off this route today. Aug 2, 2008
Chris Archer
  5.12b
Chris Archer  
  5.12b
Terrific route. The opening crux, which can be easily avoided to the left, felt like 12b after some tries working out an inobvious sequence. The second half of the route is among the best in the area. A boulder problem at the 2d bolt off the ledge leads to fun climbing with big moves to big, sometimes hidden, holds. 12a on its own. Jul 14, 2008