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Oils Well that Ends Well
5.11a,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 54
votes
FA: Jim Steagall Kevin Sandefur Chris Werner Dave Sobocan
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (04) Second Pul…
> Black Corridor
> Upper Level
> Upper Level - Right
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
I love this route and IMHO is one of the better routes in the corridor. The crux bottom is tough small crimpers and really cool 5.10 terrain for a long ways until one last thin crux again at the top!
Location
This is the second route on the right wall (West Facing). Start on the crack/ramp to the right for the first two clips and then move straight onto the very thin face!
Protection
I believe it had 6 bolts to the fixed chains up top. Pretty easy to set up a top tope from the 757 2X4 route to its right!
[Hide Photo] Dalon nearing the final crux move; very thin feet and lovin' that sloper edge!
[Hide Photo] Brian TR'ing "Oils Well" and above the first VERY thin crux and in the middle of the route.
CA
Las Vegas, NV
Quite fun, will be back now that I know where I'm going. Sep 21, 2022