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Oils Well that Ends Well

5.11a, Sport, 65 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 34 votes
FA: Jim Steagall Kevin Sandefur Chris Werner Dave Sobocan
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 04-Second Pullo… > The Black Corridor > Upper Level > Upper Level - Right
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

I love this route and IMHO is one of the better routes in the corridor. The crux bottom is tough small crimpers and really cool 5.10 terrain for a long ways until one last thin crux again at the top!

Location

This is the second route on the right wall (West Facing). Start on the crack/ramp to the right for the first two clips and then move straight onto the very thin face!

Protection

I believe it had 6 bolts to the fixed chains up top. Pretty easy to set up a top tope from the 757 2X4 route to its right!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dalon nearing the final crux move; very thin feet and lovin' that sloper edge!
[Hide Photo] Dalon nearing the final crux move; very thin feet and lovin' that sloper edge!
Brian TR'ing "Oils Well" and above the first VERY thin crux and in the middle of the route.
[Hide Photo] Brian TR'ing "Oils Well" and above the first VERY thin crux and in the middle of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The crux is between the first and second bolt + a move or two at/just above the second bolt. From the second bolt on the climb is a moderate crimp fest, gradually getting thinner until you get to the chains. The rating is fair, the bottom is tricky but after that everything is there. Sep 6, 2015
Chase D
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This is probably my favorite route in the Black Corridor. Super thin and crimpy the entire way. The lower crux is definitely .11a followed by solid but thin 5.10 climbing for the remainder of the route. Jan 7, 2016