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Texas Tea

5.10a, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 130 votes
FA: Jim Steagall, Kevin Sandefur, Chris Werner. and Dave Sobocan, 1990
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Second Pullout… > Black Corridor > Upper Level > Upper Level - Left
Warning Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste DetailsDrop down

Description

This route is about 10a if starting to the right a couple feet and climbing up to the ledge to clip the first bolt; probably 10c/d if going directly under the first bolt. Great route with consistent movement and some thin moves in the middle. I recommend this route!!

Location

This is the 7th route on the left wall (East Facing) in the upper Black Corridor area and the second route from the end. Begins at a black wall with the first bolt on a small ledge about 9 feet up.

Protection

The usual 5 bolts will find you at the fixed anchors for your rappel.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The start of Texas Tea... crimpy.
[Hide Photo] The start of Texas Tea... crimpy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Should the direct start variation be put up as separate route? :) Jan 3, 2015
Chase D
CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The direct start is rated .10d in Handren's book but it's easy to start a bit to the right and traverse over. Super fun route. Feb 4, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, Franktown, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I led the direct start and also livin on borrowed time (5.11c) yesterday. Comparatively, the single hard move to the first bolt of Texas tea was pretty much the same difficulty as moves on livin on borrowed time, but just a single move rather than sustained at the 5.11 level. Dec 16, 2016
Fernando Cal
SLC, UT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Direct start is 10c to me. Small holds and tiny feet to undercling for a fun start. Good spotter as a fall can be interesting before the first bolt. Speaking of which, hangar was spinning on first bolt as of 04/14/17. Apr 17, 2017
[Hide Comment] Anchor has been improved. First bolt is solid but worn rock is allowing the hanger to spin. Sep 14, 2018
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I clipped the first bolt from the traverse but then downclimbed and started up the route as intended. Still only a 5.10 IMO. Dec 10, 2020
Iain Macdonald
South Bay
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Maybe this route could get some love from the @SNCC? Some of the bolts are starting to show there age, and rebolting this climb with better bolt placements would also be a decent idea. Jul 18, 2021
[Hide Comment] Direct start is pretty thin for the grade.. I'd up it to at least a 10d if doing the direct start.. First bolt is spinning. Oct 10, 2021
[Hide Comment] First bolt still spinning. It also looks like the 5th hanger is missing when you get over the Hueco but a new bolt is there just above where the old one was. Feb 28, 2024
Shay Subramanian
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Direct start seems STIFF for 10c/d unless I missed something or it's really reachy...pretty blank down there! Had to use some pretty grim feet and crimps and still couldn't reach the undercling. Felt at least mid 11 to me. Oh well. Dec 1, 2025
[Hide Comment] The anchor's chains are half worn down on their last links.
Given the fine sand in the corridor those chains seem to grind down real fast.
I rap'd down but didnt love the state of those two last links. Apr 5, 2026